The Secret Society of Lathe Trolls

speed.jpg Top shows a simple Presto idler setup as described in the article, bottom shows speed change through reduction ratio as seen in a Federal 16s lathe where you flip the idler over to become a pulley. And when it says size does/doesn't matter that is ONLY referencing the rubber intermediary ...

Again, as I noted on Facebook, idler size does not impact final speed of the platter for the lathe you featured. Please stop trying to sell services and show your math to support such a claim.

Any new stylus you buy should already have heating wire attached. For cutting MyShank blanks your best bet is a diamond stylus. You can try sapphire but it will dull more quickly.

If my math and figuring is correct, your capstan for 33.3RPM should be .380 inches. Using the pulley/RPM calculator here: http://www.culvermotor.com/Engineering-Formulas/Pulley-and-RPM-Calculator.html 1800 (60hz) capstan is .3125" per Alan Graves which gives you a platter diameter of 16.88 at 33.33r...

Lots of info on this person in the other thread, will try to find it.

I've tried impressing (embossing), cutting Laserdiscs with sapphires, cut a few old acetate discs, and now want to try something that's a bit long lasting/sustainable. Where do folks buy their discs and styli (assuming most/all who cut plastics is cutting with a diamond). Retailers I am aware of: To...

Did the stylus look like that when you put it into the cutting head? That stylus is severely bent, I can't imagine that's how it should look. It looks like the screw to hold the stylus was significantly over tightened and bent the shank on the stylus.

Can styli be damaged by over heating? What are the symptoms is pops 1 of them? I've never read of stone damage due to overheating (if it has happened someone can attest to that) but certainly burning/bonding/carbonizing your cutting material to the stone due to excessive heat or lack of swarf manag...

Same overhead, see pics

https://reverb.com/item/8438270-rca-record-cutting-lathe-70c-with-72d-mi-11852-recording-attachment-1940s

piaptk wrote:It only cuts inside out? What pitch of feedscrew?

Pretty sure those overheads cut either direction without changing the feedscrew. See below.

He/they don't cut 20 minutes per side. Keep looking.

From the Acoustic Sounds FB page - "Meet Jeremy (he’s on the left in the photos). On the right is audio technician Dylan Constan-Wahl. And this is a crazy story of a nearly frustrating loss and miraculous recovery you have to hear to believe. As we’ve posted previously, we’re perpetuating the legacy...

Is this the same one I just read about over on FB that found it's way home after 2 months?

0.005" was recommended several times by Markrob and I believe is also the size noted in an old lathe/head manual I read.

First off...holy crap that heater wire is thick! Did you pull that out of the wall and wrap it around your jewel? Looks like it comes in contact with the shank too, I don't think that's a good thing. As for your tube, looks pretty sharp and jagged to me. The front looks like it was cut with a dull h...

Patience.

Unless someone completely replaced the original motor capstan, you should be able to cut 33. The native capstan was for 33rpm and then you put the included sleeve over it to cut 78. They made one for 45 too but I've never seen a factory made one. So, if your motor capstan has a solid top with a nub ...

Better explanation with picture
https://www.lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6029#p37720

You are missing the advance ball, a small nub that screws into the plate on either side of the needle. It helps control the depth of cut to be consistent on uneven or slightly warped discs.

I asked to be informative, many folks buying suitcase machines don't know the difference between the K8 and K10 so they don't know they are there. The K10 in general are harder to find, the worm gears were made out of a rather brittle material so finding a machine with all 4 gears in good condition ...