The Secret Society of Lathe Trolls

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Hey guys, Not much time tonight but here is one problem I figured out and fixed today. This issue related to when the servo motor 36V power supply and the controller that has the frequency generator were both powered down at the same time. The 5V supply for the controller would die before the 36V su...

venusloungerecords wrote:Amazing! So inspiring! Respect to the mad skills

socialroots wrote:Yes, you are Bryan, its all very EPIC!

Xertz wrote:This is awesome!

Thanks for the nice comments folks, but I've run into some snags that I'll go over in the next few days, and the fixes... For now, waiting for some parts.

B

Oh, and... Here is an optical encoder attached to the output shaft of the servo motor. Here is the servo speed when the Arduino writes to the AD9833 to output 120Khz to run the servo shaft at 1800 RPM for 33.3rpm at the platter. IMG_6149.JPG And now for 45rpm at the platter. 162Khz to the servo for ...

The correct 36 volt, 10A power supply arrived today, and the cables are done! I've had a chance to run the servo on the correct power supply and it totally works! Initial testing was with a 24V supply. IMG_6127.JPG Now that I can run at 2430rpm needed for 45rpm at the platter, I'm ready to mount thi...

Long time no post, but lots of progress. I realized that you guys haven't seen how the actual ramping function works, and decided to do a quick video that also shows the inside of the control box. Here it is: ptKCwZIUCQg As far as where I left off the last time I posted several weeks ago: I ended up...

Hey guys, Here is a little update... I mentioned I was going to try adding dampeners to the motor suspension. Although 2 of the shocks have not arrived yet, I made progress with the other two. Here is a shot of one disassembled and one complete. IMG_6054.JPG The spring and retainer are not needed, a...

Bryan you are doing excellent work with the Fairchild lathes!! I’ve pulled mine out of storage! Thanks for the note Kris. The whole thread from Jesus ( jesusfwrl ) was what inspired me to take on this project. If you haven't looked it over recently - it's totally worth reading again. Awesome info! ...

is it possible to bypass the relays and instead use a PWM output of the arduino It might be, but you will need to look into the resolution of the PWM on the arduino. I think they default to 8 bits. Perhaps they go as high as 12 bits with some trickery. Then you need a filter to get DC. As far as 0-...

Crap! Fired things up for the next test and the motor side of the coupler detached. So the the aluminum parts are back into the "dip" to strip the contact cement. I'm thinking I will try super glue tomorrow night... That stuff bonds EVERYTHING! IMG_6049.JPG "If it's not one thing, it's something els...

Progress... Yes, the latex had to be glued. I ended up using rubber cement and let it set up for a few hours. Now, get this... Damn near zero vertical misalignment! Notice position of coupler in each photo. The neadle didn't move through a full rotation of the flywheel! IMG_6045.JPG IMG_6046.JPG Now...

Wow, great way to start the day! Xylene did the trick and the aluminum parts cleaned right up! IMG_6043.JPG IMG_6042.JPG Both ends of the coupler slide on and off this 3/8" drill bit shank with zero misalignment! And the fit of the latex is so tight I'm not going to bother gluing it. It turns out th...

I spent a bunch of time adjusting the motor carriage that is suspended by springs to get the motor shaft and input shaft to the transmission exactly inline. I used bubble levels to set the lathe to level, then used levels on the suspended motor carriage to level it. Then used a level and feeler gaug...

Hey guys, thought I would do an update. Lot's of things going on with this project and more updates to come. But tonight I thought I would share the root cause of an issue I've been chasing. Everything I have been doing the last few weeks have made things better, but today I identified the primary i...

I wonder that you got such a good phase correlation in contrast of my. There were several things going on. First, I had the RC network installed between the amp and drivers. Also, I was using the Caruso preamp boards that have it's own differential FB amp inputs and it's own mixer that has lead / l...

Next up, some mods to the overhead... Although the AirPot and clamp on bracket set up shown early on seamed to work in a static "tap and see response way", it really didn't work when cutting. At first, I thought the issue may have been a lack of stiffness with my plastic clamp on scheme or the thin ...

Hey guys, Lots of progress. Thought I would show you a few things. The control box is working awesome! And I'm very happy with the ramping rate between speeds (LI, LO, cut) . I decided to do a quick test cut on a nasty 1947 16" disc and take a look at the groove spacing. I used an old school machini...

There are several things that are causing you problems right now. The number one thing you need to do is put a resistor and non polarized capacitor in parallel. Then put that combination in series with your driver. Not knowing details on your amp and impedance or DC resistance of your drivers, you c...

Here is my thread on setting up a tone arm on my 8D.
https://www.lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=6655&p=43305&hilit=presto+microtrak#p43305

You can mount the tone arm directly on your 8N, and I could not... But you will find some interesting things in the thread.

B

The box is done - except for the rear connection for the remote (lathe) mounted LPI input pot. I ended up putting 2 top / rear panel disconnects for the Touch screen, 12V switched LED lighting and the DB25 connector to the micro-stepping drive. That makes it a bit easier to remove the top / back pan...