souri's blanks

This is where record cutters raise questions about cutting, and trade wisdom and experiment results. We love Scully, Neumann, Presto, & Rek-O-Kut lathes and Wilcox-Gay Recordios (among others). We are excited by the various modern pro and semi-pro systems, too, in production and development. We use strange, extinct disc-based dictation machines. And other stuff, too.

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emidisc
Posts: 220
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:57 pm
Location: lancashire

souri's blanks

Post: # 16099Unread post emidisc
Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:39 pm

A while back a friend gave me a number of souri's blanks to try
anyway finaly got round to testing them started with a steel MSS stylus
gently heated the disc with 40w bulb prior to cutting,
I was really pleased with the cut very little surface noise and good quality
reproduction - far better than any of the previous none acetate discs Iv'e tried,
but am I correct in saying that souri does not sell blanks to none vinylrecorder owners???
emidisc

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d
Posts: 205
Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:42 am
Location: Lithuania

Post: # 16100Unread post d
Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:50 pm

yep. I asked him a year ago, and the only answer was - This is avalible only to registered users.

then i wrote that i want to register. hehe

never got the answer
_______

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piaptk
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Post: # 16132Unread post piaptk
Tue Aug 09, 2011 11:03 pm

What is a steel MSS stylus?

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subkontrabob
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Location: Helsinki, Finland

Post: # 16135Unread post subkontrabob
Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:01 am

piaptk wrote:What is a steel MSS stylus?
MSS was a british disk cutting lathe and lacquer manufacturer. There is a thread somewhere with pictures of a MSS lathe. Seems like they had a complete product line with everything needed for record cutting.

https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=2238&mforum=lathetrolls
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=1826&highlight=mss&mforum=lathetrolls


Steel styli used to be popular, probably because in those days the fidelity was limited rather by the rest of the cutting head than the stylus material.

I've made a few cuts with steel styli (normal groove), and must say that it sounds surprisingly good.

@emidisc: do you cut normal groove? is the cutterhead also MSS?

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emidisc
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Post: # 16174Unread post emidisc
Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:32 am

forgive me when you ask "do you cut normal groove?" not sure I understand?

my lathe & cutterhead is BSR circa 1947
recently obtained a replacement cutterhead (like new!)
with it came 12 unused MSS steel stylus - they cut very well,

is it possible to heat a steel stylus I understand nichrome cannot be wound
directly onto stylus??????

emidisc

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maniman
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Location: Barcelona , Spain

Post: # 16176Unread post maniman
Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:01 am

Yes I'm in that too , can apply heat on a steel stylus ? and how do it ? , but represents that MSS steel stylus is for do cutting or embossing ? and most important , heat a stylus for emboss is senseless ?

I'm embossing PVC with a Presto 1C on a 6N overhead , and the results are very very near of be really good , definitively the angle in the Peter King's video was be the key. with the 1C not so extreme angle , but much better results in that way.

Best Regards
Mani
Very Busy days , some cutting works at least , soon online again

We must promote the use and abuse of vinyl records.

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piaptk
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Post: # 16177Unread post piaptk
Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:17 am

Mani, are you embossing with a steel or sapphire? And how did you get the head leaned back that far on a 6n and still make contact with the record?

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markrob
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Post: # 16178Unread post markrob
Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:18 am

emidisc wrote:forgive me when you ask "do you cut normal groove?" not sure I understand?

my lathe & cutterhead is BSR circa 1947
recently obtained a replacement cutterhead (like new!)
with it came 12 unused MSS steel stylus - they cut very well,

is it possible to heat a steel stylus I understand nichrome cannot be wound
directly onto stylus??????

emidisc
Hi,

Back when I was experimenting with making my own steel cutting styli, I was able to wrap nichrome wire around the steel shank and get it to heat up quite well.

http://home.comcast.net/~markrob1066/site/?/page/Cutting_Stylii/&PHPSESSID=aafbf97d0ece4c2bae5ec670435cbece

You would not expect it to work for obvious reasons, but I got decent results this way. I was using Duco cement to attach the heating coil to the shank. This is a nitrocellulose based cement and I chose it since its inexpensive, drys quickly, is easy to remove, and is made of the same basic material as the blanks I was cutting. I would run up the heater current to the point that the cement would start to smoke a bit. I think this had the effect of forming an insulation barrier between coil and the shank. I would say to give it a try. I can't see that there is any harm.

I'm not sure I see an advantage to using heat when embossing, but it might be interesting to experiment. You might just stumble on to some benefits. Perhaps it would allow you to emobss a deeper groove without using much downard force. When you increase the force, you reach a point where you stop embossing and start cutting or tearing into the base material (not good). That seems to set the limit on embossing depth.

Mark

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