Hi Guys,
I still have no power in my Rek-0-Kut Challenger TR-12H amplifier. I have tested all the tubes and they are ok. What type of fuse do I need? I bought a fuse holder and fuse. On the fuse it says: BUSS A CM 2. I bought a 5 amp glass tube and it wouldn't lock in the fuse holder. It was the same length but a no-go.
Help...
Jerry
Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
Moderators: piaptk, tragwag, Steve E., Aussie0zborn
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
OOPPPS forgot to tell you I have an 8A type.
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grooveguy
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Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
Sorry, Jerry, didn't see this earlier. Did you get the beast working? That fuse ought to be a standard-for-the-time 3AG size, about an inch and a quarter long, a quarter-inch nominal diameter. Home Depot has those, they're pretty common. I take it that the tubes aren't even lighting up?
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
As of now (Dec. 26, 2021) I have not found anyone to recap my amplifier. Help.................................
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
A few thoughts...
I know that I've asked if you had the schematic in the past and cant remember... If you have it, please post it. If you are lucky the schematic will be glued to the inside of the bottom cover of the system. Having the schematic will make things much easier. I fully expect this amp to be similar to the R8A model but I could be wrong...
The fuse will likely be a slow blow type to deal with the tube filaments heating up. 8a may be a bit excessive for this circuit and I would start with a lower value such as 3 amp and use a light bulb limiter in between the amp and mains. Other models in this range use 3A slow blow fuses and I expect this to be pretty similar. If you don't already have one built, you should construct a light bulb limiter, often called a dim bulb tester. The light bulb limiter will help you not burn out a bunch of fuses or damage components during the repair and troubleshooting process. Lots of info on web on how to build one. The fuse holder likely has a spring in it to maintain a good connection and this requires some slack in the wiring at the main terminal on the back of the fuse holder. If this is too tight, you may not be able to get the fuse to insert fully.
Have you verified that the power switch is working by getting the turntable to spin? If this doesn't work you can use a multimeter on continuity mode to check the switch. You can also check the fuse for continuity while you are at it. If the power switch is good, do you have AC voltage going into and out of the power transformer? What other troubleshooting has been done?
If you have a soldering iron and some simple tools a amplifier recap is not too difficult. You can certainly get good guidance on forums if you post clear pictures of circuit overall and zoomed in pictures of the areas you are working on. Pictures of the caps in question, including any markings are absolutely required for this level of remote assistance. For me, the first order of business would be to remove or replace the "death cap" off one leg of the AC mains wiring to ground. If this is shorted it will blow the fuse every time and if not careful could cause a shock.
Where are you? If you were near Baltimore I could assist.
KC
I know that I've asked if you had the schematic in the past and cant remember... If you have it, please post it. If you are lucky the schematic will be glued to the inside of the bottom cover of the system. Having the schematic will make things much easier. I fully expect this amp to be similar to the R8A model but I could be wrong...
The fuse will likely be a slow blow type to deal with the tube filaments heating up. 8a may be a bit excessive for this circuit and I would start with a lower value such as 3 amp and use a light bulb limiter in between the amp and mains. Other models in this range use 3A slow blow fuses and I expect this to be pretty similar. If you don't already have one built, you should construct a light bulb limiter, often called a dim bulb tester. The light bulb limiter will help you not burn out a bunch of fuses or damage components during the repair and troubleshooting process. Lots of info on web on how to build one. The fuse holder likely has a spring in it to maintain a good connection and this requires some slack in the wiring at the main terminal on the back of the fuse holder. If this is too tight, you may not be able to get the fuse to insert fully.
Have you verified that the power switch is working by getting the turntable to spin? If this doesn't work you can use a multimeter on continuity mode to check the switch. You can also check the fuse for continuity while you are at it. If the power switch is good, do you have AC voltage going into and out of the power transformer? What other troubleshooting has been done?
If you have a soldering iron and some simple tools a amplifier recap is not too difficult. You can certainly get good guidance on forums if you post clear pictures of circuit overall and zoomed in pictures of the areas you are working on. Pictures of the caps in question, including any markings are absolutely required for this level of remote assistance. For me, the first order of business would be to remove or replace the "death cap" off one leg of the AC mains wiring to ground. If this is shorted it will blow the fuse every time and if not careful could cause a shock.
Where are you? If you were near Baltimore I could assist.
KC
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
Hi KC,
I am in Bristol, TN. The turntable turns when the power is on. However no lights light up on the front of the amp. I appreciate your help as it is much needed.
Jerry
I am in Bristol, TN. The turntable turns when the power is on. However no lights light up on the front of the amp. I appreciate your help as it is much needed.
Jerry
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
On the chassis in back of amp it says: 8A-1247
Jerry
Jerry
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
Hi,
Have you considered driving the head with a modern solid state amp? The heads on these were typically low impedance 8 or 16 ohms. You only need a 10-50 watt mono amp to drive the head. To make sure, disconnect the head and measure the drive coil with an ohm meter. Should be in the range of 4-16 ohms DC resistance.
Mark
Have you considered driving the head with a modern solid state amp? The heads on these were typically low impedance 8 or 16 ohms. You only need a 10-50 watt mono amp to drive the head. To make sure, disconnect the head and measure the drive coil with an ohm meter. Should be in the range of 4-16 ohms DC resistance.
Mark
Re: Rek-0-kut Challenger TR-12H
I have been busy and I couldn't work on my ROK (Rek-0-Kut). As your previous email said above that I need a 3AG size fuse? On my ROK fuse at the top it says: BUSS ACM 2. I guess that is the wrong fuse and holder. I know I am kind of "DUH" on some electronics so could you explain further and perhaps find me a holder and correct fuse on an Internet link that I could buy that would be the right one for my ROK TR 12H.grooveguy wrote: ↑Sun Dec 26, 2021 10:47 pmSorry, Jerry, didn't see this earlier. Did you get the beast working? That fuse ought to be a standard-for-the-time 3AG size, about an inch and a quarter long, a quarter-inch nominal diameter. Home Depot has those, they're pretty common. I take it that the tubes aren't even lighting up?
Many thanks,
Jerry