Modifying MSS Overhead & Retaining Handwheel Capability

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
Having just read a post from Troll member Rootz who asked how or if, there was a way to fit a "Handwheel" to a Leadscrew, I thought I'd share the details of a modifcation I've just completed which acheives just that. Here's a little look within this PDF at how I've modified an MSS "Overhead" and retained the "Handwheel Capability" for cutting "Lead-In & Run-Out" Grooves by using a Huco Friction Clutch. The Clutch will Transmit the Drive input from the motor but "Slip" and thus allow the leadscrew to be "Hand Cranked" at a "Higher Speed" when needed.
Regards Soulbear

MSS Clutch to HUCO Clutch Leadscrew Drive Conversion1.pdf

[Sillitoe]

Nice one Soulbear!
Is this going to sit above the SP10?

Cheers
James

[Soulbear]

Hi James
Yes, bang-on, the SP10 and Caruso128 will, along with the refurbished MSS Overhead, comprise my Stereo set-up. Well now, I can also reveal what has hitherto only been shared with a couple of my Troll buddies, I'm also aiming for 2 Mono Cutting set-ups when I complete restoration of these Beauties.

AR Sugden Connoiseur Lathe Photo's2.pdf

Poltz Freres - Pierre Clements Lathe.pdf

The AR Sugden Lathe was sadly dropped by the courier and was virtually beyond economic repair, however a Lathe Troll Stalwart who will remain nameless, is currently helping, in an attempt to get the Cutterhead internals repaired. This will involve making new castings of the "Internals" which when it arrived, was no more than a handful of shrapnel. A Pox on the house of DPD Couriers The Poltz Freres is a different Kettle of Fish. The "Dual" Motor only runs at 78RPM and so is being retired, along with the Platter. It will be fitted with a new Deck Baseplate and I'm currently getting a new Spindle and Bearing Well made, so I can fit a Garrard 401 Platter and belt drive this new Platter with this 50W BLDC Motor.

BLDC Motor With Internal Drive Electronics.pdf

It most conveniently supplies a 36 Pulses/Rev output which I'm feeding to a "Scaleable" Baumer Tachometer. I can "Strobe" the Garrard Platter and calculate any multiple of the Tacho reading for "Half-speed" cutting if I so wish. The Tacho was originally "Loading Down" the Motor Output pulses so they were not reaching the input threshold to drive the display. I got around that problem with this little addition.

Tachometer BufferV6.jpg

Initially R3 got a bit hot as it was a 1/4watt job, and I was asking it to dissipate around 600milliwatts, so I went for a "Arcol" 10Watt Aluminium Clad number which does much better. 1K was chosen to ensure the input was hard on against the 3K input resistance – 24V 1K/3K = > 18V ish high voltage at the signal input, "Voila" no more Signal/Tacho loading down problems.
Regards Soulbear

[Sillitoe]

Very nice!!!
Congratulations, thanks for sharing.

[Soulbear]

Hi James,
You're most welcome. When selecting the images for the PDF, I chose the wrong image to illustrate the "Inboard" end of the Clutch , so here's the image I meant to include in the PDF :-

Huco Friction Clutch.jpg

You can see more clearly the "Allen Grubscrews" which fasten the Clutch to the Leadscrew, also the "Grooved Collar" which, depending how far it's screwed onto the Clutch Body, applies more or less force on a Compression Spring. This spring in turn acts upon around 5 or 6 Friction Plates. For even finer adjustment, the Huco Literature suggests that it's possible to operate the Clutch more lightly, after removing one or more of the Friction Plates. Giving consideration to the fitting of this type of Clutch I think, gives a little more choice and flexibility to those Trolls (Who like myself) are re-engineering older technology, or scratch-building a Lathe/Overhead, when it comes to increased alternatives and additional degrees of choice, for the cutting of the Lead-in or Run-out grooves. It also helps to overcome or bypass, some of the limitations encountered when trying to source a single Motor/Drive to suit all the neccessary Leadscrew L.P.I. & "Groove Width" parameters.
Regards Soulbear