Looking to buy recordette on off volume switch

[timmy1]

I got a recordette and the volume switch is broken so I can't tell if the machine turns on or not so if anyone has a used switch I would be interested.

[markrob]

Hi,

If its a combination volume control and switch, why not jumper out the switch part and power the unit with a switched power strip. The switch part is at the rear of the control and will have two terminals. Just short these two terminals and you are powered up. If you want to replace the control, you have 3 options:

1. Try to find a drop in replacement with full functionality.
2. Replace with a non-switched control and bypass the power switch as detailed above.
3. Replace with a non-switched control and add a hole for a new power switch.

To do the replacement, you need to determine the value of the volume control and the taper (probably log). You may be able to determine the value by looking at the markings on the control. Otherwise, disconnect the leads and measure with an ohmmeter, or if you are lucky to find the schematic, get the value from there.

CTS were common types and are still made. Here is a link to the 270 series datasheet which are shown with the optional switch:

http://www.ctscorp.com/components/Datasheets/270.pdf

Use the datasheet to create a part number and then look on the web to see who might stock this or one similar. (e.g Newark, Digikey, Mouser, Allied).

Mark

[timmy1]

I found a volume control but the old one the wires broke off it. I figure the 2 shielded wires are for power on off and I got 3 wires left 2 are bear wires and the third is a bear wire that is wrapped around a insulated wire. that must go to the volume control pot but which of the 2 other wires would go to the other side of the pot.

[markrob]

Hi,

You should trace the wires back to the source to determine where they go on the pot. I would not expect AC mains wiring to be shielded (but you never know). I expect these would be audio. The power switch wires should end up back to the ac power plug and power transformer. The center of the the 3 lugs on the volume control is the wiper and would normally be the connected to the power amp stage input as wiper varies as the volume control is rotated. I would expect that the the left most lug (looking at the rear of the control) would be ground or shield as this is the bottom of the resistance (the wiper is connected to this lug when the control if fully CCW). The preamp audio output would connect to the 3rd lug. Sometimes the shield is soldered to the control body to keep it grounded.

Mark

[timmy1]

Hi one of the bear wires goes to the selecter switch, the other bear wire comes from the wire that is insulated in the center. Does the center wire come from the motor?

[timmy1]

I got someone to read the colors of the wires. I figured out the 2 black cloth wires together power the amplifyer and I have a green wire not hooked up that has the ground shield around it. Does the green wire the one power the motor and what color jumps to the green wire to power the motor?

[timmy1]

I found out the green wire comes from the tuner, one wire from that cluster goes to the selecter knob and the other wire that is not shielded in that same lume gets grounded so I can't figure where the gree hooks up. I put the 2 cloth wires together and I get full volume and 2 positions on the selecter switch I get a loud hum is that normal?

[markrob]

Hi,

It looks like you are getting close. I saw you post about the iPhone. Could you take some pictures and post a link to them here?

To re-group, it seems like you figured out which of the two wires are for the power and you have them connected together in order to power up the unit. Is this correct? If so, you should be left with 3 wires, some of which may be shielded. Is this correct?

You indicated that some of the wires are bare. Do you mean that they have enamel insulation and are stripped and solderable at the ends?

Mark

[markrob]

Hi Again,

Great news! I decided to check my Riders on CD and I found the schematic for your 8J10. If you PM me with your email, I can send it to you as a pdf.

From the schematic, it is a 500K pot with an on off switch (I would guess its an audio taper pot). This is a common value, so you should be able to get one that will drop in easily.

The bottom leg (left terminal looking at rear) is tied to ground. The right terminal is connected to the selector switch. The wiper (middle terminal is connected to one side of a .01uf capacitor. The other end of this capacitor goes to pin 1 of the 6AT6 (grid of the triode section).

Hope this gets you running.

Mark

[timmy1]

A friend and I put the volume switch in and when I turn it on I get a loud hum in phono and radio mode. Turning the volume has no effect on the hum.

[markrob]

Hi,

Loud hum with the volume control in any position usually indicates dead power supply filter capacitors. Measure the B+ voltage with a multimeter and compare against the voltage chart on the schematic. These capacitors are normally multi-section units. There are some direct replacments available, but they tend to be expensive. Here is a link to one source:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type%3DMulti-Section%20%2F%20Can%20Type

The info on each section (value and working voltage) is usually stamped on the can.

If you are on a budget, I would replace with single axial lead units of the same value and working voltage. They are available from the above source or Digikey and Mouser. To replace the multi-section can, you'll have to isolate the wiring from the old can (you can leave it in place is you like). The find some space under the chassis to wire and mount the new caps.

Mark

[timmy1]

Hi,

Loud hum with the volume control in any position usually indicates dead power supply filter capacitors. Measure the B+ voltage with a multimeter and compare against the voltage chart on the schematic. These capacitors are normally multi-section units. There are some direct replacments available, but they tend to be expensive. Here is a link to one source:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type%3DMulti-Section%20%2F%20Can%20Type

The info on each section (value and working voltage) is usually stamped on the can.

If you are on a budget, I would replace with single axial lead units of the same value and working voltage. They are available from the above source or Digikey and Mouser. To replace the multi-section can, you'll have to isolate the wiring from the old can (you can leave it in place is you like). The find some space under the chassis to wire and mount the new caps.

Mark

I acquired another recordette and I would like to know how does the turntable pull off thanks.

[Angus McCarthy]

The platter should simply be a friction fit on the spindle. Try lightly tapping the top of the spindle with a hammer while gently lifting up on the edge of the platter.