The Secret Society of Lathe Trolls

Can any trolls recommend a suitable power supply to run the Caruso RIAA pre-amp (version 1.1) ? You should go with a +-15 volt supply, 100ma minimum for 2 boards. Here is my "go to" supply. Go with an Acopian DB15-XX where XX is either 10 (for 100ma) or also available as a 15 (150ma), 20 (200ma), 3...

A mini update: I ordered some mu-metal like material today (Ultraperm 80) to do some shielding at some point and as I was thinking about the best places to apply it and I had a DUH! moment. I realized I still had 4 metal rods holding the drivers and the rest of the stuff on each driver / sensor pair...

OK, I have some test data and observations to share. A big thanks to Markrob for his inputs on what to look for. I know Mark and Todd will be interested, and I hope some of the other trolls will find this of value. The driver in the upper right is a stock - non modified driver. The one on the left o...

Ciuens wrote:The electronics is controlled by an Arduino and a small stepper motor with reduction gears, the control software is being created in Labview.

What is LabView being used for?

I would return it to the vendor and state your case. That is some bullshit right there. So here is what I got back from taulman3d.com about this, and my original (very detailed) email to them. I'm done with them... I recommend no one buy their product based on their BS response to very specific que...

You might try flipping the feedback sense driver and see if it has better shielding in one direction or the other when you do you blocked test. I have some interesting test results I'll tabulate and post tomorrow about this. And an interesting twist - I decided to eliminate the unknowns related to ...

As it stands now, the cutterhead body takes 3 hours to print with 10% fill. I don't even want to think about how long it would take to print solid... Mine was printed in ABS with 0.25 layers solid infill and it took over 5 hours at 50mm/s. So today I tried the Taulman Nylon "Bridge" product... got ...

I still have some resonance. But, I feel with some processing of the audio, this will decrease significantly. Quick question. What material are you using on your print? The head I'm working is printed with ABS, 100% rectilinear infill at 45 degrees, 6 perimeters. Not sure if ABS is the right materi...

Yoy want to reduce the moving mass as much as possible to push resonany frequency higher. Moving mass is anything that moves. Not just the rods. Guessing you already know that. Super glue has been holding parts together effectively for me for now. I was worried about super glue. I've used it for ye...

The nice thing about a DIY design is that you can try things out and make changes to see if you can improve performance. So, go with your gut. Another batch of great inputs Mark. I'm going to use this project as a learning experience. The great thing about having a 3D printer is it's easy to make c...

Why not print rods? Good question. My first few attempts were to print the stylus holder and push rods in one flat printable part. And I printed domes to glue to the cones, with a 4mm square for the push rods to glue into. When playing with them rough, I discovered I could cause the perimeter of th...

You might try flipping the feedback sense driver and see if it has better shielding in one direction or the other when you do you blocked test. Mark, your whole comment is full of great inputs. Checking both directions for the feedback shield is a wonderful idea too! I see your point about attachin...

The trick is to avoid crosstalk from the drive coil (especially at higher frequencies). Once you wind the feedback coil, you have created a loose coupled transformer with the primary driven by currents in the amp range and reading motional EMF in the millivolt range. Hi Mark. Here is a question for...

Bryan that looks great love the idea of off the shelf drivers, Do you mind me asking for details of the drivers? The drivers I bought are these: AURA COUGAR NSW1-205-8A 1" EXTENDED RANGE SPEAKER DRIVER. I got them from parts-express.com, but you can find them on Amazon as well. The first few cost a...

Cool. I'm printing parts as we speak for mine. Nice work. I LOVE your version and your approach. Man, I just can't fathom winding my own drivers and feed back coils. You are a younger man than I and I can't do "wire wrap" let alone flat wire coil winding on bobbins! Thank you so much for your all t...

This photo should help. In the background is the front and the back of the driver with no mods. In the foreground is a push rod through the center of the driver into a second unit being used as a feedback transducer as discussed.

First off, I need to thank everyone for posting all their ideas - and for sharing their failures, triumphs and works in progress. I have seen so many post from so many people that if I start to give credit I'm sure I will miss someone... So let me say this.... What I'm about to show you is this snea...

Thank you, Bryan! This seems to be a very elegant solution. Ok, I've got a quick update for you. I got the unit today, set up a few parameters via the menu structure and was able to solve my speed issue today. I think the additional applications will be of interest so I'll work up a new thread this...

Hi guys, I'm fairly new to the forum as you are and I would like to say a few thing to folks who are even newer than me. I have only posted a few times here, but the more I get into all this and discover cool ideas and do additional searches, the more the usual search engines point me to a post some...

i read through the post but saw no description of the program you used to scan those magnetic frequencies. Is it just a simulator or are you scanning the head with a device? I think Fela is using a modeling program to simulate the magnet field flux density as shown in the photos. I'm also thinking ...