Best Way To Pepare OLD Lacquers/Acetates

[Stevie342000]

Whilst we are on the subject of getting topics under one banner here is another one, I for one would find useful.

What is the best method for cleaning a lacquer or an acetate or a dubplate getting it ready for cutting?

Are there different methods for each, I think Polycarb or Lexan has been covered.

I have about 20 old acetates some 10" MSS and the others 12" EMIDISC from about 1965, is the method the same for these as they NOS? They are not chipped (well only the rim very slightly) nor do they have a crackle finish either, very shiny very clean a small amount of mildew at most if at all.

They will be hard I know, so what is the best advise with old lacquers? They are good to learn the basics on I assume?

Both brands of lacquers that I have would have been used by the BBC the former especially as I think Cecil Watts the founds of MSS designed one of the BBC cutters and he helped to develop lacquers in the 1930s in the UK at least. EMIDISC well these would have been the creme de la creme of lacquers and most UK cut discs from the 40 onwards if not earlier would have been cut on these, the de facto industry standard. Not sure when they got out of making them they may still do them on a small scale for their own needs but I suspect not. The EMI Hayes plant is mostly gone I think.

[Steve E.]

I don't think old hardened lacquers are good for learning the basics on. You will put fast wear on any good styli, and they will work against achieving positive results.

It's hard enough to get good results on optimal materials. Better to start with fresh lacquers, then mess around with that stuff later. My two cents.

[Stevie342000]

Point taken, what about using my old chipped stylus for learning the subtleties of the cutter, cutting a groove?

Seriously expecting to chip my first few styli from what I have read, so expect to have a few dud ones. Which is why I am prepared to sacrifice the old lacquers, pity we can not get the styli re-sharpened any more.

Never cut a groove before and no idea if my styli is microgroove or not, not even sure if it is long/short or tapered shank; is it's the latter what are my options?

thanks,
Steve

[audadvnc]

The problem with trying to cut a side using a worn or cracked stylus is, even if you do everything correctly you'll still wind up with an unusable cut.

[Greg Reierson]

But even that is good practice to learn how to deal with pitch / depth / bass / level issues. You can learn a lot before you ever turn on the cutting amps.

[mossboss]

The local drug store/ chemist will have a bottle of castor oil
Take a small bottle of the stuff and apply some o it to he oldddddd lacquers with a cotton ball a nice even coating don't drown them in the stuff
Do both sides than place them back in their box with a medium size potato cut in half placed in the box with them the potato should be small enough to fit the section in the corners
Place the lid of the box back again and leave them for a week or so, they will cut just fine but it may take a little longer if hey are really dried up
If you have a chipped one keep the side with the chip untreated on that side but do the good side
Than you can check the treated side with the untreated so as to do a before and after simple test
I have treated them as such it works just fine the ones i have applied this treatment they where made in the mid seventies and they where old something like 25-30 yo
The castor oil softens them the potato puts back some moisture naturally and for the cost of the castor oil it's worth it If there is any left over it works wel for constipation so no great loss put it in the medicine cabinet.
So here you go man easy breezy also I wouldn't worry to much after that in using any stylus on them it and them will be fine
The hardest lacquer it is still far softer than a sapphire for sure but don't use them if the have cracks across them as this will certainly break the stylus due to the crack across perpendicular to the stylus as the stylus will dig in the crack and snap clean
Cheers

[Steve E.]

nice!

[Stevie342000]

Thanks guys I had the potato in the back of my head but the castor oil is a genuine buy one get one free.

Cracked or crazed lacquers as far as I knew were of no use, figured it would snap the cutting stylus.

One other thing would it not be a good idea for someone to summarise some of the recent points and put them on the Wiki? Such as half speed cutting and this one how to rejuvenate an old lacquer or a link from the subject in Wiki to the topic on this forum?

I think to cut one or two test cuts even with a dud stylus is worth it to learn how the machine functions. How all the functions of the machine work i.e. cutting a lead in or lead out groove, depth of cut and of course using the vari-groove control.

As I am going to be cutting mostly human voice the levels I will use would be higher but will allow me to use a finer pitch than if I was doing regular music disc or this is my assumption; time will tell if my thinking is right there, still got to find space to break the Sugden cutting lathe down it to parts and clean every single one. Looking to be ready for the end of the year to start cutting.

[platesrecords]

Hi guys, just to reignite this topic, I am wondering the best advice on preparing/cleaning lacquers before cutting.

For example, if there is dust, fluff or any other minor obstructions on the surface of the acetate, how would one recommend clearing the area best, without scratching the surface of the disc?

Cheers

Nick

[concretecowboy71]

We have a tank of compressed nitrogen for blowing crap off lacquers.