Need record cutting tips.
Moderators: piaptk, tragwag, Steve E., Aussie0zborn
Need record cutting tips.
I am a volunteer from the Vintage Radio and Communications Museum of Connecticut, USA. I am trying to get at least one cutter going right now. We have a presto 8D that is missing the motor and the cutter head doesn't seem to work, a Rekokut 7 something? which works fairly well (although I am using old discs so the recordings are quiet and hissy), a Webster portable cutter (I think it is a webster; also no luck), a Edison Voice Writer which apparently cuts 7" discs, a couple cyclinder voice writers, and a couple Columbia dictaphones. Only the Rekokut and one of the Dictaphones work ok. I am looking for steel "long shank" needles because the rekokut has a presto head. I was wondering if anyone could advise me on getting rid of hiss. Also are dubplates ok for a lot of scratching? How do you know how deep you are cutting? Do you really need to do a lot to the audio going into the cutter? Also check out he museum website. We sell tubes. We are working on getting a recording studio together. Check out the website. The virtual tour goes a little quick but you can see a Gray turntable and an Empire 208.
http://www.vrcmct.org/
http://www.vrcmct.org/
You can always make your own shanks.
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=1037&mforum=lathetrolls
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=1037&mforum=lathetrolls
Happy to learn something new.
Wanted: Stylus for Presto, Mono heads Grampian, Fairchild, Presto, Fairchild 740 lathes, Presto 8n, 8d 8dg lathes or parts or Presto or wot ever recording Amps, PM me what you have for sale.
Wanted: Stylus for Presto, Mono heads Grampian, Fairchild, Presto, Fairchild 740 lathes, Presto 8n, 8d 8dg lathes or parts or Presto or wot ever recording Amps, PM me what you have for sale.
I am going to post a tread shortly about adapting stylus to use with a Presto head.
Happy to learn something new.
Wanted: Stylus for Presto, Mono heads Grampian, Fairchild, Presto, Fairchild 740 lathes, Presto 8n, 8d 8dg lathes or parts or Presto or wot ever recording Amps, PM me what you have for sale.
Wanted: Stylus for Presto, Mono heads Grampian, Fairchild, Presto, Fairchild 740 lathes, Presto 8n, 8d 8dg lathes or parts or Presto or wot ever recording Amps, PM me what you have for sale.
- dietrich10
- Posts: 842
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 2:18 pm
- Location: usa
- Contact:
Hi,
I've been getting good results using 1/16" high speed steel drill blanks that I purchased from McMaster-Carr. These a very inexpensive and easy to work with. I have a home built lapping setup that I constructed using an Inland SwapTop 8" lap kit. I use a 1000 grit diamaond lap to rough in the angles and finish to a mirror surface with 14000 mesh diamond powder. To achieve my face angles, I used a simple template faceter as described by Gerald Wykoff on his website:
http://www.thegemconnection.com/faceting/index.html
I also have added the ability to heat the sylus by winding a few turns of .005" Nichrome wire. I bond it to the stylus using Duco cement. I've also been experimenting with Tungstun Carbide drill blanks and saphire rod stock .032" in diameter. These are much harder to work with. In the case of the saphire, you have to make a seperate aluminum shank to hold the jewel. This requires some machine tool work to drill an .032" hole in an .062" rod. If you are interested in more detail, PM me and I'll try to help.
Mark Robinson
I've been getting good results using 1/16" high speed steel drill blanks that I purchased from McMaster-Carr. These a very inexpensive and easy to work with. I have a home built lapping setup that I constructed using an Inland SwapTop 8" lap kit. I use a 1000 grit diamaond lap to rough in the angles and finish to a mirror surface with 14000 mesh diamond powder. To achieve my face angles, I used a simple template faceter as described by Gerald Wykoff on his website:
http://www.thegemconnection.com/faceting/index.html
I also have added the ability to heat the sylus by winding a few turns of .005" Nichrome wire. I bond it to the stylus using Duco cement. I've also been experimenting with Tungstun Carbide drill blanks and saphire rod stock .032" in diameter. These are much harder to work with. In the case of the saphire, you have to make a seperate aluminum shank to hold the jewel. This requires some machine tool work to drill an .032" hole in an .062" rod. If you are interested in more detail, PM me and I'll try to help.
Mark Robinson
Hi All,
I put a quick link with some pictures that show what I'm doing. Hopefully, this will make sense. I'll be glad to answer any questions.
http://home.comcast.net/~markrob1066/site/?/page/Cutting_Stylii/
Mark
I put a quick link with some pictures that show what I'm doing. Hopefully, this will make sense. I'll be glad to answer any questions.
http://home.comcast.net/~markrob1066/site/?/page/Cutting_Stylii/
Mark
Maybe I should just invest in a saphire. Problem is the museum isn't in the greatested shape finacially. I will be back to the museum saturday so I can get some pics up Saturday night. How many faces are you putting on the needle? What kind of voltage are you using on the wire. Also if I do get new discs will I need to heat the stylus; it doesn't get gummed up?
Tim
[img]http://hartford.craigslist.org/wan/1001003061.html[/img]
This image added is a little crazy.
Here is one of the records I cut. It is not very clear but I will get pics of the lathes and stuff Saturday.
This image added is a little crazy.
Here is one of the records I cut. It is not very clear but I will get pics of the lathes and stuff Saturday.
Tim
Hi,
Its hard to see the quality of the cut from your pictures.
Unless you want to get into it like I am, I'd suggest getting a cutting stylus from Transco. They are not cheap at $90 or so, but you are assured of a properly made stylus. I put 3 faces on my stylii. The professionally lapped units have very tiny burnishing facets (1 micrometer). See the link for a detail drawing of a typical stylus.
http://www.apollomasters.com/adamanttechspec.html
Keep in mind these can be very easily damaged as they are very brittle.
The heating element is controlled via the current, not voltage. I run about .3 amps through my home made units using a surplus HP power supply that has adjustable current limit. The voltage needed to achieve this current is low; just a few volts.
Hope this is of some help.
Its hard to see the quality of the cut from your pictures.
Unless you want to get into it like I am, I'd suggest getting a cutting stylus from Transco. They are not cheap at $90 or so, but you are assured of a properly made stylus. I put 3 faces on my stylii. The professionally lapped units have very tiny burnishing facets (1 micrometer). See the link for a detail drawing of a typical stylus.
http://www.apollomasters.com/adamanttechspec.html
Keep in mind these can be very easily damaged as they are very brittle.
The heating element is controlled via the current, not voltage. I run about .3 amps through my home made units using a surplus HP power supply that has adjustable current limit. The voltage needed to achieve this current is low; just a few volts.
Hope this is of some help.