Can anyone identify what would be causing the swarf to tangle like this? Top of the photo is normal swarf. Bottom side is the different consistency which I can’t pinpoint the issue. Every time is looks like this it immediately drops from suction.
Heat ~half amp.
Piano pump suction that works well when the swarf is normal.
Tube is about 2mm off disc and 2mm behind diamond.
Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
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spinnertownblanks
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Re: Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
Check your groove depth, too little weight can cause 'wirey' chip which usually drops.
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Stylus Maker
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Mon May 27, 2024 6:38 am
Re: Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
Ive been experimenting with shallower angle diamond stylus which would be stronger on more difficult materials and less prone to chipping . Tests have been possitive with good sound.
A durability test over time shows extented stylus life on previuos tests.
A durability test over time shows extented stylus life on previuos tests.
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mushroomjesus
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Wed May 03, 2023 11:15 am
Re: Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
heat. too much heat = swarf inconsistency.
try turning the heat lamp down . or off.
35c with good humidity room control.
try turning the heat lamp down . or off.
35c with good humidity room control.
Re: Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
After the system has been working well for years in this regard, I encountered the frizzled swarf problem "almost overnight".
After a few seconds to a few minutes of cutting, the chip gets frizzled and drops from suction, even when I increase the suction power in a way that it is audible on the cut.
What I have tried so far, without significant improvement:
- Different blanks and different temperatures: (myshank V1: between 25-35 degrees, myshank V2: between 25-35 degrees, traditional blanks: between 35-45 degrees)
- various cutting angles according to blank type
- 3 different stylus
- various stylus weight (from 12gr to 18gr)
- stylus heating on/off
- concentration of anti-static liquid (from 100% distilled water to 50/50 water/alcohol)
- Played also with different distance and hight of the suction pipe.
Room temperature is 20° C and humidity is around 50% It seems that the combination of room temperature and humidity is essential. With humidity below 50% the situation starts to get worse. I suspect that the humidity decreases locally when I heat up the blank.
Does anyone have any advice on whether I've overlooked something or how I can keep the humidity constant even when the temperature of the blank is higher than room temperature (which is mostly the case I suspect)? Is it the humidity at all, or something else?
Thank you.
After a few seconds to a few minutes of cutting, the chip gets frizzled and drops from suction, even when I increase the suction power in a way that it is audible on the cut.
What I have tried so far, without significant improvement:
- Different blanks and different temperatures: (myshank V1: between 25-35 degrees, myshank V2: between 25-35 degrees, traditional blanks: between 35-45 degrees)
- various cutting angles according to blank type
- 3 different stylus
- various stylus weight (from 12gr to 18gr)
- stylus heating on/off
- concentration of anti-static liquid (from 100% distilled water to 50/50 water/alcohol)
- Played also with different distance and hight of the suction pipe.
Room temperature is 20° C and humidity is around 50% It seems that the combination of room temperature and humidity is essential. With humidity below 50% the situation starts to get worse. I suspect that the humidity decreases locally when I heat up the blank.
Does anyone have any advice on whether I've overlooked something or how I can keep the humidity constant even when the temperature of the blank is higher than room temperature (which is mostly the case I suspect)? Is it the humidity at all, or something else?
Thank you.
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Dub Studio
- Posts: 301
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- Location: Bristol
- Contact:
Re: Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
Just looks like different audio to me... is that silent recording?
Re: Swarf/chip is frizzed/tangled/different consistency
The photo is not mine, but I can confirm that the swarf looks like this regardless of the audio and even on silent cutting.
I managed to solve the problem. There are an many helpful tips here in the forum regarding this problem (e.g. room temperature, humidity, heating, stylus weight, seasonal difference, suction, antistatic fluid) which are all pieces of a puzzle and have been very useful to me.
I'll try to summarize:
1. Humidity relative to the cutting temperature. If you heat the discs, bear in mind that the humidity close around the cutting head may be significantly lower than in the room itself. This is accentuated in (European) winter when room temperature may be lower and the air may be dry. So, best place two hygrometers in the room, one of them as close as possible to the cutting head. If the humidity close the head drops below 48%, problems may begin to start.
If you monitor the cut (which is usual when cutting with a VR), you will hear some static ‘pops’. If these ‘pops’ become frequent (1-2 per second) or if there is a lot of “static crackling” when flipping the blank from the A to B side, the air is likely to be too dry. If the relative humidity is around 50-55% there will be less or almost no “static crackling”. A fellow troll mentioned that he has hot drinks in the room. A kettle is very good for quickly increasing the humidity.
2. Anti-static fluid. Optimal lubrication is essential for the surface during any chip-removing process, including cutting. Antistatic liquid provides the lubrication here. A 50% / 50% mixture of distilled water and isopropanol alcohol (btw: there is an excellent blog on spinnertownblanks.com regarding this) is a good base. Be sure to add “enough” liquid dishwashing detergent as this helps to lubricate. “Enough” means that there are just no treces left when the blank has dried from anti-static fluid. Alternatively, use liquid wax. However, this means more effort to polish the surface.
3. If the swarf starts to get frizzled, the suction power is no longer significant. Even with very high suction power, it is very likely that the hose will become completely clogged or that parts of the chip will remain in the system, which will lead to problems later on. Be sure to empty the chip container and blow out (not suck) the entire suction line from the cutting head to the container in both directions.
With these 3 points, the problem was solved as quickly as it appeared. Maybe useful to others.
I managed to solve the problem. There are an many helpful tips here in the forum regarding this problem (e.g. room temperature, humidity, heating, stylus weight, seasonal difference, suction, antistatic fluid) which are all pieces of a puzzle and have been very useful to me.
I'll try to summarize:
1. Humidity relative to the cutting temperature. If you heat the discs, bear in mind that the humidity close around the cutting head may be significantly lower than in the room itself. This is accentuated in (European) winter when room temperature may be lower and the air may be dry. So, best place two hygrometers in the room, one of them as close as possible to the cutting head. If the humidity close the head drops below 48%, problems may begin to start.
If you monitor the cut (which is usual when cutting with a VR), you will hear some static ‘pops’. If these ‘pops’ become frequent (1-2 per second) or if there is a lot of “static crackling” when flipping the blank from the A to B side, the air is likely to be too dry. If the relative humidity is around 50-55% there will be less or almost no “static crackling”. A fellow troll mentioned that he has hot drinks in the room. A kettle is very good for quickly increasing the humidity.
2. Anti-static fluid. Optimal lubrication is essential for the surface during any chip-removing process, including cutting. Antistatic liquid provides the lubrication here. A 50% / 50% mixture of distilled water and isopropanol alcohol (btw: there is an excellent blog on spinnertownblanks.com regarding this) is a good base. Be sure to add “enough” liquid dishwashing detergent as this helps to lubricate. “Enough” means that there are just no treces left when the blank has dried from anti-static fluid. Alternatively, use liquid wax. However, this means more effort to polish the surface.
3. If the swarf starts to get frizzled, the suction power is no longer significant. Even with very high suction power, it is very likely that the hose will become completely clogged or that parts of the chip will remain in the system, which will lead to problems later on. Be sure to empty the chip container and blow out (not suck) the entire suction line from the cutting head to the container in both directions.
With these 3 points, the problem was solved as quickly as it appeared. Maybe useful to others.