And here's what I got. A Rek-O-Kut Master Pro M-5 Lathe Cutter Arm mounted on a R.O.K V series deck, with an Audax RH5 cutting Head. It took the guy almost a month to send it to me, and when I finally get it, it is damaged. I need some help from you trolls.
I already knew that the motor was going to be an issue(the wiring is a mess, so I expect that to be the problem). But because of how it was shipped and the condition it was in when it arrived, I am trying to figure out if I should get my money back or keep it and try to fix it.
What I am worried about the most is the Cutting arm. Is the arm supposed to be able to tilt forwards and backwards? Shouldnt it be stationary? Is it simply tighting the many adjustment screws? what other critical things should I look at for possible shipping damage?
Here is the ebay item# 400047200714, there are pic's there, unfortunately I dont have any of the cutter once I received it.
Also, here is a link to a R.O.K brochure if it helps.
http://www.oddsandendtables.com/ebay/rekokut.pdf
Finally got my lathe..
Moderators: piaptk, tragwag, Steve E., Aussie0zborn
RekOkut
Hey Monoplex
I think you got yourself quite a good basis to start from By the looks of the bits and pieces whoever owned this thing before knew what he was doing so there may be mods there away from a standard machine nothing hard to sort out
Hey these machines were never "plug and play" any way, so hold on
Having said that here is how it goes
These things are in essence very solid rather tough machines I doubt that anything will be broken Just not mounted correctly or assembled may be a couple of screws missing who knows but all durable
It looks like the seller had no idea and he says so
If you got all the bits as depicted in the listing you should be OK
Just frasturating
Be patient I am sure you will get it all sorted in due course and you will have lots of fun as well as a lot of help here
It is a troll thing so make it welcome
Lots of help is needed by the experts let along newcommers to it Just hold on and I would have thought for what you paid you did allright any way
Cheers
I think you got yourself quite a good basis to start from By the looks of the bits and pieces whoever owned this thing before knew what he was doing so there may be mods there away from a standard machine nothing hard to sort out
Hey these machines were never "plug and play" any way, so hold on
Having said that here is how it goes
These things are in essence very solid rather tough machines I doubt that anything will be broken Just not mounted correctly or assembled may be a couple of screws missing who knows but all durable
It looks like the seller had no idea and he says so
If you got all the bits as depicted in the listing you should be OK
Just frasturating
Be patient I am sure you will get it all sorted in due course and you will have lots of fun as well as a lot of help here
It is a troll thing so make it welcome
Lots of help is needed by the experts let along newcommers to it Just hold on and I would have thought for what you paid you did allright any way
Cheers
I also have a Rek o Kut
Is the audex head 8 ohms ? if so you will be able to run this on a modern 8 ohm amp via one of the channels.
Diamond Cut 7 software allows you to send the input via an reverse RIAA curve.
need any help PM me.
Is the audex head 8 ohms ? if so you will be able to run this on a modern 8 ohm amp via one of the channels.
Diamond Cut 7 software allows you to send the input via an reverse RIAA curve.
need any help PM me.
Happy to learn something new.
Wanted: Stylus for Presto, Mono heads Grampian, Fairchild, Presto, Fairchild 740 lathes, Presto 8n, 8d 8dg lathes or parts or Presto or wot ever recording Amps, PM me what you have for sale.
Wanted: Stylus for Presto, Mono heads Grampian, Fairchild, Presto, Fairchild 740 lathes, Presto 8n, 8d 8dg lathes or parts or Presto or wot ever recording Amps, PM me what you have for sale.
AAARRRGG!
So after cleaning,adding new oil, and replacing the capacitor. The motor still wasnt working. So out of frustration I took it to a local shop to have it inspected. Now it looks like the motor has an open circuit(which means that there are some broken windings in the motor). The repairmen at the shop said he could rewind it, but it will cost around $500! Now I dont know what to do. Should I buy a motor that is as close as possible to the specs of the old motor, and use a potentiometer to slow down the speed a little. Or should I just have him rewind the motor and bit the bullet. Am I screwed?
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cuttercollector
- Posts: 431
- Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 4:49 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
-
cuttercollector
- Posts: 431
- Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 4:49 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
look here http://www.robertvandyke.com/ 
Hi,
Looks like a real nice setup.
A few suggestions. You should be able to sub in a motor as long as its a standard AC induction type. I couldn't read the specs off the motor namplate. You want the same RPM and HP rating. Also, measure the shaft diameter and lenght. Hopefully, any stepped drive shaft is easily removed and can be installed on a new motor. You might also have to fabricate a mouting bracket. You should be able to find a sub based on these specs. Here is a link to the Grainger motor selector. They might have something close.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/guideBrowse.shtml
Before you trash the exisiting motor. See if the dead winding is the start winding. If so, you might be able to make the motor run by giving it a spin. Also, it may be worth it to tear down the motor and see if the open is due to a wire break right at the terminals. If so, you can re-solder and/or patch the bad connection.
Mark
Looks like a real nice setup.
A few suggestions. You should be able to sub in a motor as long as its a standard AC induction type. I couldn't read the specs off the motor namplate. You want the same RPM and HP rating. Also, measure the shaft diameter and lenght. Hopefully, any stepped drive shaft is easily removed and can be installed on a new motor. You might also have to fabricate a mouting bracket. You should be able to find a sub based on these specs. Here is a link to the Grainger motor selector. They might have something close.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/guideBrowse.shtml
Before you trash the exisiting motor. See if the dead winding is the start winding. If so, you might be able to make the motor run by giving it a spin. Also, it may be worth it to tear down the motor and see if the open is due to a wire break right at the terminals. If so, you can re-solder and/or patch the bad connection.
Mark
Oh yeah...the motor I currently have is a 0.5 amps, but all of the newer motors I find have higher amps. Does the higher amps mean more torque? And because my motor is sooo old it doesnt have a HP rating on it. I am assuming it is around 1/6HP. This getting away from the record lathe topic. But I have been unable to find anyone locally to explan some things to me.
Hi,
In general, you're right. Higher current should equal more HP. I think your HP estimate sounds a bit high. .5 amps at 120 VAC yields 60 Watts or about 1/12 HP. But that assumes all of the power input to the motor results in torque. A good deal of the power input is wasted as heat. So, I think something more on the order of 1/20 HP would be a good estimate. If you find a motor with a higher rating, you should be fine as long as you can make it fit. The shaft speed is the critical item here. The problem with an asyncronous induction motor is that the speed varies vs. torque load. Without having the original running, its hard to know if the designers counted on a slight drop in motor shaft speed under load to obtain the correct platter RPM. If you find a suitable sub, you may have to tweak the diameters of the driving shafts to raise or lower the RPM. You might have to farm this out to a machine shop if you don't have the skills or tools.
One last option would be to go with a DC permanent magnet or brushless 3 phase motor and controller. This would require some extensive mods, but you would gain a great deal of flexibility (e.g. 1/2 speed mastering). Here is a link to Flo's approach to the problem using a 3 phase motor.
http://www.floka.com/lofi/portable_lathe.html
Hope this helps.
Mark
In general, you're right. Higher current should equal more HP. I think your HP estimate sounds a bit high. .5 amps at 120 VAC yields 60 Watts or about 1/12 HP. But that assumes all of the power input to the motor results in torque. A good deal of the power input is wasted as heat. So, I think something more on the order of 1/20 HP would be a good estimate. If you find a motor with a higher rating, you should be fine as long as you can make it fit. The shaft speed is the critical item here. The problem with an asyncronous induction motor is that the speed varies vs. torque load. Without having the original running, its hard to know if the designers counted on a slight drop in motor shaft speed under load to obtain the correct platter RPM. If you find a suitable sub, you may have to tweak the diameters of the driving shafts to raise or lower the RPM. You might have to farm this out to a machine shop if you don't have the skills or tools.
One last option would be to go with a DC permanent magnet or brushless 3 phase motor and controller. This would require some extensive mods, but you would gain a great deal of flexibility (e.g. 1/2 speed mastering). Here is a link to Flo's approach to the problem using a 3 phase motor.
http://www.floka.com/lofi/portable_lathe.html
Hope this helps.
Mark
I got everything up and running, and now here is a few more questions.
I have a Audax R5 cutting head. If the head is mono why is there two leads coming out(yellow and black wires)? I am also using a R.O.K M5 cutting arm. I have no idea what all of the adjusting knobs/screws do. Basically I want to know how to change the depth of cut and and angle. I tried making a few cuts on a laser disc with a steel needle I found with the unit. I know that is not the best set up but I couldnt wait anymore to purchase a better needle and blanks.
Again any advice is very much appreciated.
I have a Audax R5 cutting head. If the head is mono why is there two leads coming out(yellow and black wires)? I am also using a R.O.K M5 cutting arm. I have no idea what all of the adjusting knobs/screws do. Basically I want to know how to change the depth of cut and and angle. I tried making a few cuts on a laser disc with a steel needle I found with the unit. I know that is not the best set up but I couldnt wait anymore to purchase a better needle and blanks.
Again any advice is very much appreciated.
Hi,
Sounds like you are far along now. You need two wires to energize the coil inside the cutter head just like a speaker. The polarity is not critical. You need to determine if the coils is low or high impedance. If its low, (8-16 ohms) you can drive it with one channel of a standard modern stereo power amp. You should only need about 10 watts of power to run the head. If you have an analog or digital multimeter, measure the coil DC resistance. If its in the 2-8 ohm range you should be good to go as this indicates its low impedance. As to the setup and adjustment, I can't help as I don't know this unit. I'd try and locate a copy of th owners manual. Hopefully somone here can help. Good luck.
Mark
Sounds like you are far along now. You need two wires to energize the coil inside the cutter head just like a speaker. The polarity is not critical. You need to determine if the coils is low or high impedance. If its low, (8-16 ohms) you can drive it with one channel of a standard modern stereo power amp. You should only need about 10 watts of power to run the head. If you have an analog or digital multimeter, measure the coil DC resistance. If its in the 2-8 ohm range you should be good to go as this indicates its low impedance. As to the setup and adjustment, I can't help as I don't know this unit. I'd try and locate a copy of th owners manual. Hopefully somone here can help. Good luck.
Mark