Feed Screw Project (Presto 6N, 8N)
Moderators: piaptk, tragwag, Steve E., Aussie0zborn
Feed Screw Project (Presto 6N, 8N)
Ok so I have been thinking more and more about feed screw needs. These things seem to be frequently missing. I do have a good machine shop that I can work done at. Mark from the forum was gracious enough to send me a technical drawing of a feed screw that will be helpful.
Now, I don't know what it will cost as of yet, but I think it would be good to get a poll of what screws are most useful and how many might be needed by forum members.
It would even be better if someone might be willing to lend a feed screw for the cause. I know I read that a 112LPI screw came with the 6N, but what other screws would be useful any why?
Thanks for any thoughts on this. Before long, I should be able to figure out a price on each piece from the local shop.
Tim
MBL
Now, I don't know what it will cost as of yet, but I think it would be good to get a poll of what screws are most useful and how many might be needed by forum members.
It would even be better if someone might be willing to lend a feed screw for the cause. I know I read that a 112LPI screw came with the 6N, but what other screws would be useful any why?
Thanks for any thoughts on this. Before long, I should be able to figure out a price on each piece from the local shop.
Tim
MBL
Last edited by MBL on Mon Oct 08, 2012 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I had some feedscrews made up in the past. They were all 180 lpi, because between 160-190 is the sweet spot for fitting a good amouint of music on a disc at a reasonable volume... about 190, you have to start watching volume and bass, and below 160, you have to cut very short records.
I just looked into getting some more made, and they were going to cost me even more than last time, and it was pushing $100 a screw (with a minimum of ten), which is kind of ridiculous. My friend and I are shopping around right now for a shop that can do it cheaper.
I would say that for simplicity sake (each lpi requires a seperate design for the machine), I would make 128, 180, and 224. That should cover anyone's needs.
Also, be sure to make them out of stainless steel. Some of the screws I had made last time got rusty if left in a damp environment.
Depending on the price, I'd be a buyer for some screws.
I just looked into getting some more made, and they were going to cost me even more than last time, and it was pushing $100 a screw (with a minimum of ten), which is kind of ridiculous. My friend and I are shopping around right now for a shop that can do it cheaper.
I would say that for simplicity sake (each lpi requires a seperate design for the machine), I would make 128, 180, and 224. That should cover anyone's needs.
Also, be sure to make them out of stainless steel. Some of the screws I had made last time got rusty if left in a damp environment.
Depending on the price, I'd be a buyer for some screws.
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this thread answers your LPI questions
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=824.html
I've been looking into more feedscrews, now that I have two lathes operating at once.
I'm in talks with a machine shop, I'll let you know the results.
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=824.html
I've been looking into more feedscrews, now that I have two lathes operating at once.
I'm in talks with a machine shop, I'll let you know the results.
making lathe cuts on a Presto 6N, HIFI stereo cuts on vinylrecorder
at Audio Geography Studios, Providence, RI USA
http://www.audiogeography.com
at Audio Geography Studios, Providence, RI USA
http://www.audiogeography.com
- Angus McCarthy
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- Steve E.
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I had a very reliable guy all lined up to do this a couple years ago (for the Presto 6N) and it fell apart because I couldn't get a minimum order together (10 minimum was needed). If there is enough interest, I can get my guy to plow ahead. But if you have someone too, we can see.
I do have some lower gauge 6N screws, too, all ready to sell. out to in, in to out. I was too preoccupied to sell them before. I'm in a better place to do so now.
I'd be interested in getting some VERY low gauge ones made, for puzzle records. 24 lpi, etc.
I can never remember whether the highest I've used is 224 or 240. (It's stated in some other threads around here.) Whichever it is, I have had perfectly decent results, albeit a little quiet. I'd personally like to get several made up for myself between 180 and 216. I want to make LPs.
I do have some lower gauge 6N screws, too, all ready to sell. out to in, in to out. I was too preoccupied to sell them before. I'm in a better place to do so now.
I'd be interested in getting some VERY low gauge ones made, for puzzle records. 24 lpi, etc.
I can never remember whether the highest I've used is 224 or 240. (It's stated in some other threads around here.) Whichever it is, I have had perfectly decent results, albeit a little quiet. I'd personally like to get several made up for myself between 180 and 216. I want to make LPs.
- petermontg
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Check with machinist how he will mahcine the threads, they have to be CNC'ed. If done by hand the threads will wear faster. Also make sure the machinist can do your desired LPI. My guy can't hit certain LPI but he gets as close as possible maybe -1/2 LPI. You need to bring your maths with you so he can understand how you calculate LPI and break it down so his cnc can understand what to do.
Hi,petermontg wrote:Check with machinist how he will mahcine the threads, they have to be CNC'ed. If done by hand the threads will wear faster. Also make sure the machinist can do your desired LPI. My guy can't hit certain LPI but he gets as close as possible maybe -1/2 LPI. You need to bring your maths with you so he can understand how you calculate LPI and break it down so his cnc can understand what to do.
I don't see any reason the screws need to be CNC machined. The original Presto screws sure weren't. The wear factor should have more to do with the materials used. In the case of the Presto screws the knife edge is supposed to be the wear item. When I made mine, I used free machining 12L14 steel as its easy to work with on a small bench lathe. I did not attempt to heat treat the screw to harden it, but I could see that using oil or water hardening drill rod might be a good idea.
That said, once setup, CNC would be a great idea if you were making a number of them. I could see most of the operations being done in one setup.
Mark
Mark
- Steve E.
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I just updated this thread:
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=824.html
It now has more running times and it should be easier to read. It has some VERY low LPIs in case anyone wants to make puzzle records (parallel grooves).
I am going to put a call into my medical-machinist friend from a couple years ago, make sure he is still on board with cutting some feed screws, and get a quote from him. I'm going to get some screws cut for myself.
If people PM me again ASAP with the screws they are interested in buying, I will put together a quote and get back to you to see if you want to move forward. Basically, because of the way his process works, I can do this in lots of 10. I'd love to give him an order of either 10 or 20 screws.
I can't guarantee that my prices will be as low as some local machinist of yours. But my guy has a great reputation, and if you don't want to hassle with getting your own machinist, this might be worthwhile for you.
In case you are curious....As for me, I have a decent run of feed screws already. I actually use my 240 LPI screw a LOT, my 256 sometimes, and I find myself wishing that I had a run of several screws between 192 and 232. This is because I want to cram as much running time on an LP side as possible, and minimize the compromise each time. In addition, I will be making a 24 LPI and 48 LPI for puzzle records.
Let me know.
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=824.html
It now has more running times and it should be easier to read. It has some VERY low LPIs in case anyone wants to make puzzle records (parallel grooves).
I am going to put a call into my medical-machinist friend from a couple years ago, make sure he is still on board with cutting some feed screws, and get a quote from him. I'm going to get some screws cut for myself.
If people PM me again ASAP with the screws they are interested in buying, I will put together a quote and get back to you to see if you want to move forward. Basically, because of the way his process works, I can do this in lots of 10. I'd love to give him an order of either 10 or 20 screws.
I can't guarantee that my prices will be as low as some local machinist of yours. But my guy has a great reputation, and if you don't want to hassle with getting your own machinist, this might be worthwhile for you.
In case you are curious....As for me, I have a decent run of feed screws already. I actually use my 240 LPI screw a LOT, my 256 sometimes, and I find myself wishing that I had a run of several screws between 192 and 232. This is because I want to cram as much running time on an LP side as possible, and minimize the compromise each time. In addition, I will be making a 24 LPI and 48 LPI for puzzle records.
Let me know.
- Steve E.
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OK! I have 13 tentative 6N feed screw orders. Nobody is committed until I after I confirm the price, but this will help me get an estimate.
Requests include LPIs of:
24 (for puzzle records)
48 (for puzzle records)
176, 180 or 184 (I will probably just pick one of these three gauges)
192
208
224
240 or 256 (I will probably do 240)
Please PM me if you want in on the order. Unless I there are specific requests, I will most likely fill out the order with extras of the 180ish, 224 and 240.
Requests include LPIs of:
24 (for puzzle records)
48 (for puzzle records)
176, 180 or 184 (I will probably just pick one of these three gauges)
192
208
224
240 or 256 (I will probably do 240)
Please PM me if you want in on the order. Unless I there are specific requests, I will most likely fill out the order with extras of the 180ish, 224 and 240.
- dietrich10
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- Steve E.
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Two caveats emptor, by the way:
1) If you have not altered the blade that rests on the feed screw, you may have problems with higher LPIs (not sure of the cutoff). My blade was modified somewhere along the line, such that the edge is flat on the "out" side and tapered/angled on the "in" side. Alan Graves recommends replacing the blade with a reshaped X-acto blade if need be.
2) The 24 and 48 LPIs have never been tried before, and I don't even know if they are possible to manufacture or if they will work. It may be that the grooves in the screws will have to be impossibly deep if the blade is going to track them. It is also possible that there will be too much resistance in the cutterhead assembly for it to move that quickly. I intend to try an experiment with those gauges before making a bunch of them.
1) If you have not altered the blade that rests on the feed screw, you may have problems with higher LPIs (not sure of the cutoff). My blade was modified somewhere along the line, such that the edge is flat on the "out" side and tapered/angled on the "in" side. Alan Graves recommends replacing the blade with a reshaped X-acto blade if need be.
2) The 24 and 48 LPIs have never been tried before, and I don't even know if they are possible to manufacture or if they will work. It may be that the grooves in the screws will have to be impossibly deep if the blade is going to track them. It is also possible that there will be too much resistance in the cutterhead assembly for it to move that quickly. I intend to try an experiment with those gauges before making a bunch of them.