stylus heating question (plastic)

[Dub Studio]

Not exactly. OK so the method I use is as follows:

1) cut off a couple of inches of wire (length = 2 x distance of stylus from binding posts, plus 8 x windings, plus a little spare at each end to hold on to)

2) mount the stylus in the head

3) tie one end of the wire to a binding post, leave a little hanging off the post as you will probably need this to retie it if you want to change stylus at any point

4) hold the wire taut, and start winding. With each winding ensure the wire is aligned nicely by pushing it down towards the hilt (you need finger nails for this, not good if you have fingers like sausages). Make sure the wires don't overlap (or wind over eachother). Never let go of the wire or slacken it off too much while you are winding, you will lose the neat winding and possibly damage the stylus tip if the wire recoils off the end.

5) once you have the sufficient number of windings (I stick to 8, but it depends on your set up and stylus length), tie the other end off on the other binding post, again leaving a little spare on the end.

6) once you have ensured the coil is in place, and holding firm, you can slacken the wires off from the binding posts by a mm or so. To do this, simply loosen the binding post a little, and push the wire sideways until you feel a little of the spare wire (see point nymber 3) pulling towards the binding post. You are going for a slight bowing of the wire, no craziness. This will give free movement, but also hold the coil.

Just to reiterate, if you do this properly, there is no need for glue. All cutting heads are designed such that the binding posts are set higher than the stylus, so the wire will always pull upwards, holding the coil in place on one end (and the hilt holds it in place on the other). Plus the wire has a certain amount of malleabilty, and will form around the stone.

[emidisc]

Will give it a try

[nikc]

Hi Sorry if a bit late to the party: I cut with myshank diamond and blanks. I don't go over 30 degrees as the swarf goes sticky. Usually about 27 and with stylus heat up to 0.3 A. Especially as the stylus wears down a bit. As start getting a bit of surface noise.

I have found it a problem with swarf sticking to the disc and up the tube in the past so it has been a balancing act to get it right. Getting the stylus weight right has also been a factor.
Best
Nik

[farmersplow]

Not exactly. OK so the method I use is as follows:

1) cut off a couple of inches of wire (length = 2 x distance of stylus from binding posts, plus 8 x windings, plus a little spare at each end to hold on to)

2) mount the stylus in the head

3) tie one end of the wire to a binding post, leave a little hanging off the post as you will probably need this to retie it if you want to change stylus at any point

4) hold the wire taut, and start winding. With each winding ensure the wire is aligned nicely by pushing it down towards the hilt (you need finger nails for this, not good if you have fingers like sausages). Make sure the wires don't overlap (or wind over eachother). Never let go of the wire or slacken it off too much while you are winding, you will lose the neat winding and possibly damage the stylus tip if the wire recoils off the end.

5) once you have the sufficient number of windings (I stick to 8, but it depends on your set up and stylus length), tie the other end off on the other binding post, again leaving a little spare on the end.

6) once you have ensured the coil is in place, and holding firm, you can slacken the wires off from the binding posts by a mm or so. To do this, simply loosen the binding post a little, and push the wire sideways until you feel a little of the spare wire (see point nymber 3) pulling towards the binding post. You are going for a slight bowing of the wire, no craziness. This will give free movement, but also hold the coil.

Just to reiterate, if you do this properly, there is no need for glue. All cutting heads are designed such that the binding posts are set higher than the stylus, so the wire will always pull upwards, holding the coil in place on one end (and the hilt holds it in place on the other). Plus the wire has a certain amount of malleabilty, and will form around the stone.

Hi, greetings to Bristol and thanks for the explanations!

I am planning to fit my diamond with a NiChrome heating wire. I understand that it should be a thin NiChrome wire of about 0.1mm - about 8 turns. I have three questions about this:
1: Does the 8 turns also apply to diamond gravers?
2: Do you use an insulated NiChrom wire? Because if I wind it uninsulated, the current will probably no longer run through the coil but directly from the input to the output. And if insulated, then I have only found 0.15mm NiChrom wire and with insulation it has a diameter of 0.3mm. With 8 windings this means a length of 2.4mm! That is longer than the available space on the diamond. What do I understand wrong?
3. if I want to glue, which glue (drop of glue) should be used? I first thought of the dentist technique and UV-curing adhesives. Alternatively also Epoxy2K. Has anyone had any experience with this?

Greetings from Austria
Thomas

[Dub Studio]

Not exactly. OK so the method I use is as follows:

1) cut off a couple of inches of wire (length = 2 x distance of stylus from binding posts, plus 8 x windings, plus a little spare at each end to hold on to)

2) mount the stylus in the head

3) tie one end of the wire to a binding post, leave a little hanging off the post as you will probably need this to retie it if you want to change stylus at any point

4) hold the wire taut, and start winding. With each winding ensure the wire is aligned nicely by pushing it down towards the hilt (you need finger nails for this, not good if you have fingers like sausages). Make sure the wires don't overlap (or wind over eachother). Never let go of the wire or slacken it off too much while you are winding, you will lose the neat winding and possibly damage the stylus tip if the wire recoils off the end.

5) once you have the sufficient number of windings (I stick to 8, but it depends on your set up and stylus length), tie the other end off on the other binding post, again leaving a little spare on the end.

6) once you have ensured the coil is in place, and holding firm, you can slacken the wires off from the binding posts by a mm or so. To do this, simply loosen the binding post a little, and push the wire sideways until you feel a little of the spare wire (see point nymber 3) pulling towards the binding post. You are going for a slight bowing of the wire, no craziness. This will give free movement, but also hold the coil.

Just to reiterate, if you do this properly, there is no need for glue. All cutting heads are designed such that the binding posts are set higher than the stylus, so the wire will always pull upwards, holding the coil in place on one end (and the hilt holds it in place on the other). Plus the wire has a certain amount of malleabilty, and will form around the stone.

Hi, greetings to Bristol and thanks for the explanations!

Any time!

I am planning to fit my diamond with a NiChrome heating wire. I understand that it should be a thin NiChrome wire of about 0.1mm - about 8 turns. I have three questions about this:
1: Does the 8 turns also apply to diamond gravers?
2: Do you use an insulated NiChrom wire? Because if I wind it uninsulated, the current will probably no longer run through the coil but directly from the input to the output. And if insulated, then I have only found 0.15mm NiChrom wire and with insulation it has a diameter of 0.3mm. With 8 windings this means a length of 2.4mm! That is longer than the available space on the diamond. What do I understand wrong?
3. if I want to glue, which glue (drop of glue) should be used? I first thought of the dentist technique and UV-curing adhesives. Alternatively also Epoxy2K. Has anyone had any experience with this?

Greetings from Austria
Thomas

OK so:

1) Yes, it works for diamond and sapphire, I started winding my own heating coils when I broke one and couldn't get a replacement for a diamond. I then started replacing them routinely if they were wound too close to the tip, for example, or I just wanted to give the stylus a good clean.

2) Good question, I forget, it was a long time ago I bought a few reels. I don't think it's insulated because it would probably stop the conduction of heat to the stylus, plus the insulation might end up melting anyway. I guess that as long as the winding starts at one end and doesn't overlap it should conduct nicely through the coil. The electricity will mostly take the path of least resistance, and even if there is a bit of shorting, it will just create heat, which is what you want. It is very important not to let the wires touch once they leave the stylus tho... that will cause a massive short and prevent any heat reaching the stylus. Having said that, exercise caution and try both if not sure.

3) Sorry I can't help with that one, I find glue is just annoying, what is the use case for it? I imagine you want the following criteria:

- conduct heat but not electricity
- doesn't melt / burn
- easy to remove

[Dub Studio]

Here is one I made earlier... 6 or 7 turns on that one, but you get the idea: https://www.instagram.com/dubstudio/p/CEb48Z1BhRS