Lockdown turntable and lathe - a DIY project

[pennstate913]

Hi David! Was attempting to use your Arduino code to run my stepper and lcd, but I can't seem to get it to verify and upload. I keep getting "Compilation error: no matching function for call to 'LiquidCrystal::LiquidCrystal(int)' " as an error. Any thoughts to what I could be doing wrong?

[Fattcamp]

Thanks for the additional diagrams! That'll help very much.

I image so, but are the 470 ohm resistors still required for the photointerrupter circuits on top of the 470 ohm resistors coming off 5v to the limit switch headers on the linear rail controller digram? Same question for the nearby 10k on the linear rail diagram.

Thanks again,
Dave

[Fattcamp]

Hi David! Was attempting to use your Arduino code to run my stepper and lcd, but I can't seem to get it to verify and upload. I keep getting "Compilation error: no matching function for call to 'LiquidCrystal::LiquidCrystal(int)' " as an error. Any thoughts to what I could be doing wrong?

In my case, I just copied the library from David's GitHub Repo to the library location for Arduino IDE and didn't run into errors. I didn't install the library through IDE. I'll defer to David though.

Dave

[pennstate913]

Yeah I just recopied the library over and its working! Thanks mate. Question, did you find that the end stops are needed to run the code/motor?

[Fattcamp]

I haven't been able to get the motor to spin other than once last night but May have had my wiring a bit off. I wasn't able to do so again since but now I've got the diagrams from David to work through. The H & L on the bottom of the Vinyl Burn software just show in red and the burn button is greyed out currently. How did you get yours to spin?

[Fattcamp]

I can get my motor to spin using the program but only after taking the 10k resistor out of the photointerrupter circuits. I didn't have 10 ohm resistors for R2 so I put a 100 ohm in it's place. I can't seem to trigger the photointerrupters regardless, but maybe that's because my res value for R2 is off. At least there's finally some movement!

[pennstate913]

Can you post a pic of your wiring? I haven't gotten the wiring on mine finished yet, trying to follow David's diagram to replicate the stripboard

[shtipkov]

Hello.
My name is Todor (from Bulgaria) and a friend of mine asked me to help him with the "Arduino" part for this vinyl recorder project. I'm done with all the wiring. Actually I'm running A4988 driver instead of TCM2208 (I hardwired MS3 for the A4988 and changed the Arduino routine setHStepperMS for the steps) and I use buttons for the end positions. The motor is running well in "Forward_wind"/"Back_wind", but I have an issue on "Recoding". The motor is running for a second and then stops, starts again and stops again and so on. It seems to me that this is no "normal" situation. Do you have any suggestion what can be the problem/solution ?

Best regards
Todor

[Thelatheofus]

I would advice you all to code the thing yourselves. I never coded, I wanted to copy and paste the code provided here, but there is just too much I didn't understand in there (or too many parts that were different). I think in the end it is easier to learn some basics of coding, struggle a bit with chatgpt to get something that fits your configurations and needs rather than fiddling with "complex" code (you will need to fine tweak the code posted here anyway).

[Fattcamp]

Yeah I just recopied the library over and its working! Thanks mate. Question, did you find that the end stops are needed to run the code/motor?

No probs! I'm not quite following what you're asking here. Can you clarify? If you mean the photointerrupter circuits, yes I believe I needed them to be able to use transport controls. I'm going to write a separate reply to David regarding those as the photointerrupters aren't doing their job. The triggers flies right through them. Haha!

Can you post a pic of your wiring? I haven't gotten the wiring on mine finished yet, trying to follow David's diagram to replicate the stripboard

My wiring is a rats nest of dupont connectors so not sure if it would help much but I was planning on posting a few pics of my progress so I'll get some up here maybe tonight if I can find some time. Which wiring from David are you referring to specifically? There's the main board, photointerrupters and the LCD circuit. I've followed everything in the build and on this thread as absolutely close a possible and have transport controls working. I did have the 4 x motor wires mixed up on the main board with the stepper driver so transport controls were reversed but have now been corrected. I have an issue but I'll menion it elsewhere here.

Hello.
My name is Todor (from Bulgaria) and a friend of mine asked me to help him with the "Arduino" part for this vinyl recorder project. I'm done with all the wiring. Actually I'm running A4988 driver instead of TCM2208 (I hardwired MS3 for the A4988 and changed the Arduino routine setHStepperMS for the steps) and I use buttons for the end positions. The motor is running well in "Forward_wind"/"Back_wind", but I have an issue on "Recoding". The motor is running for a second and then stops, starts again and stops again and so on. It seems to me that this is no "normal" situation. Do you have any suggestion what can be the problem/solution ?

Best regards
Todor

I wish I could help but I'm sticking to the TMC2208 as per the build and all transport controls are working. I'm not new to tinkering but new to motors/drivers so I'll need to defer to others here with more experience.

I would advice you all to code the thing yourselves. I never coded, I wanted to copy and paste the code provided here, but there is just too much I didn't understand in there (or too many parts that were different). I think in the end it is easier to learn some basics of coding, struggle a bit with chatgpt to get something that fits your configurations and needs rather than fiddling with "complex" code (you will need to fine tweak the code posted here anyway).

While coding yourself will certainly help with an understanding of what's going, I'll have to respectfully disagree for this project (for my specific situation at least!). Personally, coding isn't my thing and some of us have little to no time for that end of a project like this. I barely get time outside of work & family... and couldn't imagine coding from scratch if I ever wanted there to be an end in sight so I could actually get to embossing/cutting. I'm having a blast building this, but I'm SUPER THANKFUL for the provided code, and I've just stuck to the build and it's working. There were a few wires crossed here and there but I've worked those kinks out. Don't get me wrong, what you say is true and can be really informative, but is not necessarily realistic depending on our individual situations. The reason I decided to try this build was specifically because of the info that David graciously provided. Perhaps when everything is up and running, I'll fiddle with it down the road if there are potential benefits/modifications etc...

[pentlandsound]

are the 470 ohm resistors still required for the photointerrupter circuits on top of the 470 ohm resistors coming off 5v to the limit switch headers on the linear rail controller digram? Same question for the nearby 10k on the linear rail diagram.

You will still need the 470R (R1) on the small photointerrupter circuit. Without it, the LED side of the photointerrupter circuit would suffer, as there would be a direct connection through it between 5V and GND. R3, the 10K on the same diagram, acts as a pull-down when the output is low (ie when the photointerrupter is blocked). This output signal is inverted by the 74HC14 IC on the Linear Rail Controller diagram to yield a HIGH signal to the Arduino (connections marked T, U) when the photointerrupter is blocked (and, thus, LOW to the Arduino when clear).

On the LR Controller diagram, the two 470R's that connect to the ninth strip from the top (the incoming 5V line) form part of two transistor circuits that switch on or off depending on the 74HC14 IC output at points T and U. The 10Ks adjacent to these (in pink) are to limit the amount of current flowing into the bases of the two BC547 transistors. The emitters of the BC547s connect via headers to LEDs on a control panel. These LEDs merely duplicate the red L and H flags on the 'Vinyl Burn' status panel, and this whole part of the circuit (470s, 10Ks and BC547s) can be omitted if you're not fussed about having LEDs as well.

The two 470s at the lower right of the diagram were included for possible use with LEDs mounted in the cutting head (connections Q and R to header at RHS of diagram). Again, these can be omitted if you're not installing LEDs in this way.

Hope this helps!
David

[Fattcamp]

are the 470 ohm resistors still required for the photointerrupter circuits on top of the 470 ohm resistors coming off 5v to the limit switch headers on the linear rail controller digram? Same question for the nearby 10k on the linear rail diagram.

You will still need the 470R (R1) on the small photointerrupter circuit. Without it, the LED side of the photointerrupter circuit would suffer, as there would be a direct connection through it between 5V and GND. R3, the 10K on the same diagram, acts as a pull-down when the output is low (ie when the photointerrupter is blocked). This output signal is inverted by the 74HC14 IC on the Linear Rail Controller diagram to yield a HIGH signal to the Arduino (connections marked T, U) when the photointerrupter is blocked (and, thus, LOW to the Arduino when clear).

On the LR Controller diagram, the two 470R's that connect to the ninth strip from the top (the incoming 5V line) form part of two transistor circuits that switch on or off depending on the 74HC14 IC output at points T and U. The 10Ks adjacent to these (in pink) are to limit the amount of current flowing into the bases of the two BC547 transistors. The emitters of the BC547s connect via headers to LEDs on a control panel. These LEDs merely duplicate the red L and H flags on the 'Vinyl Burn' status panel, and this whole part of the circuit (470s, 10Ks and BC547s) can be omitted if you're not fussed about having LEDs as well.

The two 470s at the lower right of the diagram were included for possible use with LEDs mounted in the cutting head (connections Q and R to header at RHS of diagram). Again, these can be omitted if you're not installing LEDs in this way.

Hope this helps!
David

Hey David!

Thanks again for providing the additional diagrams and instruction. I whipped up the two photointerrupter circuits last night (mirrored like you suggested) after testing on a breadboard. Now that you've provided an explanation of those resistors today, do you have any idea why my photointerrupters aren't stopping movement once triggered? Each interrupter circuit has R1 (470R) & R2 (10R), but when I add the pull-down R3's (10K), the LR flags turn red within the software, so I've removed them temporarily. Transport controls work then, but the trigger flies right past my interrupters. I'm wanting LED's but don't have them soldered in yet and wasn't sure if them missing (Since they're optional) were part of the issue or not.

Thanks again,
Dave

[shtipkov]

Hello, Thelatheofus,
thank you fot your suggestion, but I don't have enough time and knowlegde to write donw my own code. So I have to use the provided Linear_Rail_Stepper_Controller.ino and just slightly correct it for my needs. First I've started with TCM2208, burnt it down and ordered a replacement one. Meanwhile I dicided to switch to A4988 (cheap & available), but I didn't connect the SLEEP pin and I think this was my mistake. Today I tested again the electronics and noticed that when I touched SLEEP and RESET everything is running OK. Next time I will connect the SLEEP pin and will make some tests or if my new TCM2208 arrives I will switch to the original schematic.

Hello, Fattcamp,
I still don't have photointerrupters and I'm using microswitches/buttons directly connected to inputs 8 and 9. The other end of the button is connected to GND.
I changed the inputs type to INPUT_PULLUP.
" pinMode(PIN_H_STEPPER_LIMIT_LO, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(PIN_H_STEPPER_LIMIT_HI, INPUT_PULLUP);"
and reverse the logic from Low to High
"boolean limitHLo()
{
return (digitalRead(PIN_H_STEPPER_LIMIT_LO) == HIGH) ? false : true;
}
//-------------------------------------------------------------------
boolean limitHHi()
{
return (digitalRead(PIN_H_STEPPER_LIMIT_HI) == HIGH) ? false : true;
}"

and my buttons are working perfect. When I press L it stops the motor only in that back direction. When I press H it stops the motor in forward direction. With this code modification I can operate the motor without any end sensors. It's a workaround before the photointerrupters come. The photointerrupters are for safety and at the beging when I will watch the whole record process I will suppress them with this code and stop buttons.

Best Regards
Todor

[pennstate913]

Started wiring up the linear rail controller. Here attached is my attempt so far..not finished with all the connections yet. Thoughts or any mistakes you can see that may need to be fixed?

[pennstate913]

Started wiring up the linear rail controller. Here attached is my attempt so far..not finished with all the connections yet. Thoughts or any mistakes you can see that may need to be fixed?

added a photo of the underside of the board

[Fattcamp]

Hey guys,

Here are a few pics from my build. Since these photos, I've epoxy'd the coin exciters, covered the cones in epoxy per comments in the thread as well as adhered the collars to the cones. I still need to adhere the cones to the exciters and the push rods to the torque tube. My final electronics order arrived from Digikey so I've almost completed the LCD circuit. It's just about time to sort out a high-torque TT (or build one) and need to pick up the embossing Stylus which I believe is the "Sapphire Embossing Stylus (Short Shank) by Presto Recording Co" from recordlatheparts.com based on David's photos in the thread.

I'll be making a second cutter head based off this build with aluminum cones but found these 3d printed cones easier to work. Open to any thoughts, constructive criticism or anything else as this is my first build.. and yes, I'm aware that there are better materials (alumide) for certain parts but wanted to see how things went with the 3d printed parts to keep the cost down. Enjoy my rat's nest of dupont wires!

PXL_20240522_073343558.MP.jpg

PXL_20240617_194652812.jpg

PXL_20240617_195243867.jpg

PXL_20240624_225713345.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053136611.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053156522.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053220597.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053309985.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053321160.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053331886.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053342923.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_053354653.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_072710219.MP.jpg

PXL_20240716_073038645.MP.jpg

PXL_20240719_054750245.jpg

PXL_20240719_063021806.jpg

[Thelatheofus]

Nice one, this looks great !
You'll probably need to go for alumide printing at some point for the cutting head, but I'd be curious to hear how it sounds as it is.

[Fattcamp]

Thanks! Yes I imagine I'll eventually go the alumide route but was curious what I could get out of these materials first and try to to improve over time.

To pentlandsound or anyone else out there that's followed this build, are there any suggestions for how to approach the following issue involving the photointerrupters?

I'm still experiencing an issue where when I add R3 (10k) to the photointerrupter circuits, the "L" & "R" flags turn red in the software (and LED's) and no longer allow transport control. As soon as one 10k is added to one of the circuits, it goes red and the same for the second circuit. Without those 10k resistors, transport controls work, but the photointerrupers don't seem to do anything when the trigger passes through them.

I've recreated those 2 small circuits on a breadboard and get the same result. All resistor values are correct and I've tried 4 of my photointerrupters. I imagine this is something silly but can't seem to sort it out.

Thanks guys,
Dave

[Fattcamp]

I'm also curious what the steel wire is for (as a total noob here that's making good progress). I know in some builds, the stylus is heated up but there's mention of it being an anchoring wire earlier in this thread and the instructions mention epoxying it. I've drilled the appropriate holes but what is this 1mm steel wire for?

Thanks,
Dave

[Thelatheofus]

to Fattcamp : If I understand correctly the 1mm wires you are talking about are the pushrods : their goal is to connect the drivers (speakers) to the torque tube (the torque tube is the tube that will hold the stylus). I mentionned earlier that epoxing them to the cone at the end of the drivers is a valid solution (as many have proved on this forum).

Heat to the stylus comes from really tiny wires that look like hair, they are way thinner than 1mm and they are connected to the stylus (not to the torque tube). They are not present in the last set of pictures because there is no stylus installed in the torque tube in those pics.

An other 1mm steel wire could be the piano wire at the back of the torque tube. It is part of the v-spring (V shaped piece that you can see on the previous series of pictures) that holds the torque tube in place, and allows it to move only in the desired directions. In this case, the piano wire (usually thinner than 1mm if I'm not mistaking) is there to not allow the torque tube to move backwards or forwards. It is burried at the back of the torque tube on one side, and attached to the body of the cutting head on the other. We don't see it either in those last pics, but if you look for piano wire or v-spring on this forum you'll find threads and pictures about them. When you talked about anchoring you were probably talking about this part.