Big mistake while tightening tension rod.

[rubdubreggay]

Hello, to make it short, the head was working very well without my touch.
As you can probably see from the images, the model is a RCA MI-4896, it doesn't come with any turntables, but vibrates really good, after some light use with a fuse and an amplifier, i tried adjusting the small rod that holds the tension of the armature (horrible mistake), and after some wiggle back and forth it just broke with very minimal tension. If that wasn't necessary i tried soldering it with some hard solder but it just keeps wiggling and not doing its job. it looks to me like the stick was stuck inside the armature round piece by the means of a support to the left side, not simply soldered onto...
The head works REALLY well electrically i can tell, but this is a huge problem. I was hoping to solve it by myself but it is proven to be real difficult, can anybody give a tip? I'm trying to keep it as close as standard as possible...

Thanks a lot!

[rubdubreggay]

I will reply to myself this:

IF IT'S NOT BROKEN DON'T FIX IT

peace, trolls.

[rubdubreggay]

Trolls, let's leave the tension rod aside for a moment... The head just won't play unless i slightly move the stylus to the center...

Can somebody guide me at least on how to properly center the armature between the two plates?
This is driving me crazy, i feel like the head should still sing if it's centered at least, the rod from what i understand only keeps the stylus set at position zero to avoid trembles on disk surface and lateral motion...

i am sorry for what i did.

if anyone wants to help, thanks.

i am not an experimenter, i am not an engineer, i am not. and i feel bad for trying my hand. i'm in your hands.

[rubdubreggay]

Woo, in fact. I can assure you that whatever this model head is, it needs that tension rod not only to keep it exactly between the poles, but also to be perfectly centered and at a fixed distance from the magnet, so that there is no rotation of the armature from front to the very back, where the rubber damper is.
Still trying to find the right distance, but as an update i can tell that some vibration was obtained after soldering with proper tools a piece of work hardened brass (about 0.8mm diameter)

The material is clearly not stiff enough, it will bend.
But i have the theory that if i can get the assembly correctly in place, very little force will be needed to obtain a good vibration, despite a great loss in highs (that weren't exactly there in the first place, cutting at about 4-5khz, but it's more than enough for me)

The stiffer the rod, the higher you can go i assume.
But again, i am no engineer.

[Estrada]

Hi, I have one of these heads. I haven't had this issue but at one point I was looking to re-do this connection for some reason. I think I was getting a lot of distortion I couldn't explain and thought this might have been the problem, I think the problem ended up being a blown amp. In the end I left it (glad I did) but was looking to use silver solder to do the job. I'm not sure what kind of solder you have used but if it is just electrical solder it is probably too soft. If so, then I'd recommend using silver solder and stick with the original rod, I don't think it would need to be any thicker. You might find that the extra stiffness means more power to drive it and a higher possibility of blowing the head.

The other issue I had with this head is that the damping membrane at the back was old and worn. I made a new one, let me know if you want any more info on this.

I think I was able to get 7-8khz from mine

Good luck

[rubdubreggay]

The problem also resides in the stylus not not properly sharp, as i have tested for the past 2 days... it leaves rainbow marks but nothing really touchable

I am trying my hand at new iron stylus as a training substitute for stylus, following standard? angles and faceting with the sandpaper... in all ways and with powder.