Lazarus Lathe Project

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
A little over a week ago I came across this item on the ubiquitous Bay and I decided to see if I could bring it back to life, hence the title of the post. Now even though I'm currently working on a three other Lathe Repair/Builds, Namely a Poltz Freres Restoration/Modification, a AR Sugden Connoisseur Repair/Restoration, and a MSS/Technics Hybrid Build, I just knew I had to own this rather sorry-looking Birmingham Sound Reproducers (BSR) DR33C.

BSR DR33C Lathe.jpg

BSR DR33C Lathe1.jpg

BSR DR33C Lathe2.jpg

BSR DR33C Lathe3.jpg

Continued in Next Post
Soulbear

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,

BSR DR33C Lathe4.jpg

The idea is that when work on one Lathe is held up for spares/parts-machining etc, that I can move on to one of the other Lathes and continue in my quest to start cutting Records. The first item with this DR33C was to see if I could salvage the Overhead Slide Bars, they did after all look pretty neglected. I'm pleased to share the results of my effort of a few hours intensive cleaning here :-

BSR DR33C Restoration.jpg

As you can see, despite only looking fit for the scrap-bin, with the judicious use of a "Dremmel" type Multi-tool (A Cheaper Chinese made Knock-Off) with 800 Grit Flap-wheels, followed by Hand-polishing with first 1000 Grit, then 1500 Grit Wet and Dry Paper, and finally Metal Polish, the Slide Bars came up as good as new. The next focus of my attention was the Platter itself. It too looked seriously neglected and covered in corrosion marks. A few more hours of intensive therapy supplied by Elbow-Grease and Metal Polish topped off with a nice Platter Mat from a defunct Toshiba Turntable and, as you can see here, it too, looks a completely different animal.

BSR DR33C Restoration1.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration2.jpg

To be continued
Regards Soulbear

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
Continuing, I've completely dismantled, cleaned, painted, lubricated, and re-built the Overhead :-

BSR DR33C Restoration3.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration4.jpg

I thought I'd lost the Blessed Ball Bearing from the "Outboard-Non-Drive End" of the Leadscrew whilst I dismantled the Overhead, but managed to re-locate it doing a few sweeps of the flooring with a stack of Neodymium Magnets. The Ball bearing is essential for minimising friction when making adjustments to limit the leadscrew's "End-Float" While I was about it, I removed, cleaned and re-painted the Lathe's I.D. Label too :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-10.jpg

I next turned my attention to the Motor Mounting Sub-frame
Continued......

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
The Motor Mounting Sub-Frame Isolation Rubbers were perished/missing :-

BSR DR33C Restoration5.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration6.jpg

Try as I might, I couldn't locate any Isolation Rubbers of the same height (About 5 or 6mm) Bearing in mind this Lathe is pushing 70 years-old, the OEM who supplied the Rubbers are probably long gone. Necessity being the Mother of Invention, I decided to use 15mm High Rubbers, my hypothesis being, that the longer the Rubber Mounts, the better will be the Isolation from Motor Vibrations. Now the academics on the Forum will have immediately spotted a flaw in my Hypothesis. This of course is that 15mm is bigger than 5mm, which could have lead to serious clearance/fitting issues. But, but, but, before anyone jumps in, Yes I raised the Sub-frame 10mm with the Rubbers, but then went and reduced the "Fitted Height" by fitting 10mm Stainless Steel Spacers between the underside of the Deck-Plate and the Sub-Frame fixing brackets :-

BSR DR33C Restoration7.jpg

Soulbear

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
Here's the end result of fitting the 10mm Rubbers (+15mm -5mm Original Rubber Height) :-

BSR DR33C Restoration8.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration9.jpg

Next on the agenda will see Soulbear making like the Four Tops singing a Non-Motown, Tim Hardin song "If I Were a Carpenter" Te He! A confession here would be most appropriate methinks. "I am a Spoiler of Wood". Now my late Elder-brother, he was a "Master Carpenter" serving a 7 Year, that's right 7 Year Apprenticeship, from ages 14 through to 21. He could treat woodwork with the due care and attention it deserves, me though, I'd never use a screw if I could get away with a 6" nail !! I only tell Trolls of this "Timber Abuse" and I'm getting my excuses in early, in advance of revealing my somewhat amateurish Joinery endeavours where there's N'er a Mortise or Tenon to be seen!! Soulbear
To be continued.........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
Next job on my agenda was to make a Plinth/Base for the Cast Aluminium Lathe Deck to sit in. Warning, I did say it ain't going to be pretty!! (How I envy those people blessed with the skills to make propper carpentry joints, Oh Well!!) Anyhow's, 6" x 1" Standard Planed Side and Edges Timber, was annoyiingly just not quite deep enough to clear the depth of the Platter Drive Motor. The next size up of readily available, "Off the Shelf" timber, was going to be too deep, so the solution I came up with was to add lengths of 1" x 1" P.S.E. Timber (Glued and Screwed) to the bottom edge of the 6" x 1" P.S.E. (I actually think I could have got away without the screws, by heck, that P.V.A. Wood Glue makes a strong bond!!) Still, as they say, if a job's worth doing, etc! By adding these 1" x 1" to the bottom edge the Plinth/Base, it ended up being just the right depth. By the way, when purchasing the timber, I was reminded that "Timber Sizes" are what could only be described as "Notional" the 6" x 1" came out at closer to 5.5" x 3/4" and the 1" x 1" was similarly around the 3/4" x 3/4" mark :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-11.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-12.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-13.jpg

Soulbear
Continued.....

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
I dropped in the Lathe Deck for a "Test Fit" and found I'd been too ambitious in trying to get the Plinth/Base to be a "Snug Fit", for you see, the plan is, that when the Plinth/Base is finally assembled, to cover up my somewhat wanting carpentry skills, it will be clad in an overcoat of "Tolex" Textured P.V.C. Cloth. The sort of stuff that is often used to cover large Loudspeakers, Amplifiers and the like :-

Tolex.jpg

On completion, I discovered I'd made the Plinth/Base just a tad too "Snug" which meant that further down the line, during final assembly, there was the distinct probability of "Tearing" the Tolex covering when dropping in the Deck Plate. After a few "Golly Goshes, and Mercy Me's" (actually I was about 98% up the "F" scale!!) I decided there was nothing else for it, but to re-make the thing (Tip, Measure Twice, Cut Once!!) I must say though, I was much happier with the clearance I'd allowed 2nd time around:-

BSR DR33C Restoration-15.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-14.jpg

Soulbear
Continued.....

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
After spending much too long a period of time, "Hand Sanding" to try and make the joints and extension pieces look well-aligned, there followed a quick trip to my local "Screwfix" outlet. I'd decided life's too short to spend hour after hour sanding down timber, so I went and got me a 800Watt Belt Sander. Yippee, well worth the extra few quid spent, in terms of time saved:-

BSR DR33C Restoration-16.jpg

You can see above, how I plan to make the Leadscrew Drive both Variable and Independent of the Platter Pulley, by the fitting of this P.W.M. Controlled 24V Gearmotor. Shorting the P.W.M. Controllers 5V Speed Control, 100K Potentiometer "Wiper" Lead, to one of the other Legs of the Potentiometer, causes the Gearmotor to run at full chat, which I'm hoping with the addition to the Lathe of a "Momentary" Push Button, will prove suitable for the Cutting of Lead-in and Run-out Grooves. We shall see, we shall see.

BSR DR33C Restoration-17.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-18.jpg

Not Knowing how many times during this renovation, that I might have to mount/de-mount the Lathe Deck Plate, I was reluctant to attatch the Deck Plate to the Plinth/Base using "Wood Screws" My thinking is, that after the wood screw has been in once or twice, the screws lose their "Bite" I fished around on the web and landed on these Four Pronged "Furniture Captive "T" Nuts" which, will handily take a Machine Screw which can be run in or out repeatedly without losing their grip. They come in sizes M4, M5, M6, M8, to M10. I took a punt at M4 sized "T" Nuts and found them to be most suitable for this Lathe Deck Plate to Plinth/Base attatchment :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-19.jpg

Regards Soulbear
Continued......

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
And now for a small digression, a history lesson if you will. Here's an archaic component which sort of gives an indication of the vintage of this BSR DR33C :-

BSR DR33C RestorationE-1.jpg

Indicated by the Red Arrow is an Auto Transformer, a device, the use of which, is not so commonplace nowadays. In an Auto Transformer, one single winding is used as the primary winding, as well as the secondary winding. Like this :-

Auto Transformer Circuit.png

Within the U.K. the National Electrical Grid came into being in the early 3T's. However, it was comprised of many regional Grids, linking very many Power Stations. The supply voltage could actually vary by around 50Volts from one part of the Country to the next (200V-250V). This was the state of affairs 'til around the 6Ts, and ended with the closure of many smaller, less efficient municipal Power Stations, and the advent of the fewer but Huge, Mega Stations. These developments coupled with the introduction of first the 275KV Grid, and the later 400KV Super Grid made the supply throughout the U.K. much more uniform and standard. Now the manufacturer of the DR33C (BSR) most thoughtfully incorporated the Auto Transformer into the Lathe, precisely to allow for this hitherto variabilty of the supply from one Region to the next.

However, the Modus Operandi of Selecting the Various tappings would not, in this Health and Safety Concious era, pass muster, and would be rejected or condemned nowadays, as being Quite "Unsafe" see here :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-25.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-27.jpg

Power is applied to the extreme leftmost terminal where it is Transfered via the rivet to energise the frontmost "Busbar" The power is then fed from the "Busbar" to whichever is the most appropriate Auto Transformer tapping by inserting the Bakelite covered "Stepped Screw" The Step makes contact with the "Live" or "Hot" Busbar, whilst the "Male Threads" of this Stepped Screw, make intimate contact with the Female Threads on the Terminals feeding the various Auto Transformer Tappings. You can see that it is not inconceivable, to accidentally make contact with the "Hot" Busbar, via any unused connection points. The "Dangerous" Connector therefore is now, with the uniformity and standardisation of the U.K. Power supply, both totally obsolete and redundant. It is going to be removed from the Lathe, and a permanent connection made to the 240V-250V wire on the Auto Transformer. I could actually now remove the Transformer completely, but I'm loathe to disturb the "Cloth Covered Wires" within the wiring Loom, any more than is strictly neccessary. Having disturbed them once, when I opened up the motor to check and Re-Lube the Motor Bearings, (which incidentally quite suprised me), because they happened to be of the "Bronze Bush" type, rather than Ball or Roller Bearings. I've explained the reasons for the removal of this selector terminal, here on the Forum because, I don't want to replace any more wiring than is needed, but neither do I relish being accused of wanton "Vandalism" of Ancient and Venerable Heirlooms by other Lathe Trolls, later into this renovation, Te He!
Here endeth this "History Lesson"
Regards Soulbear
Continued........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
In an earlier post, I highlighted the 24V Gearmotor which I hope to use in place of Driving the DR33C's Overhead with the Auxilliary Pulley on the Platter Spindle Shaft. I also mentioned that connecting the wiper of the 100K Speed Control Potentiometer to one of the Potentiometer's other Terminals, on the P.W.M. Speed Controller for this Gearmotor, causes the Gearmotor to run at Top Speed, thinking that this "High Speed" could be O.K for Lead-in/Run-out Grooves. Now I've had a little think about it over the past day or so, and I've decided, Top Speed just may be too high for the cutting of these Lead-in and Run-out Gooves. Subsequently, I've been doing a little Experimentation by shorting the Wiper Terminal to the Pot's other Terminals via a selection of Resistors and found them to give a fairly Linear Approximation of the Pot as indicated on the P.W.M. Controller's Display, which indicates 0%-100% of the P.W.M. Duty Cycle I.E. 10K = 10% ish, 20K = 20% ish, 30K =30% ish etc up to 100K (or Vice Versa I forget for the moment, could be 10K = 90%, 20K = 80% etc!!) The Upshot to this experimentation means I can set the Duty Cycle to whatever L.P.I. I may need to record various lengths of music, by adjusting the Potentiometer, additionally, I will be able to "Tailor" or "Trim" the Gearmotor's Speed for Lead-in/Run-out, via the selection of the most appropriate fixed resistor, used in conjunction with the soon to be installed Momentary Push Button. I've started to install a Power Supply for the Gearmotor into the Plinth/Base :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-24.jpg

Today I've also been attending to the Cosmetics, by whacking on 2 Coats of Mr Hammerite's Finest Silver Hammer Finish Paint onto the Lathe's Deck Plate, and also trying to avoid getting High as a Kite, on the Fumes from the Contact Adhesive for the Plinth/Base's "Tolex" Textured P.V.C Covering!

BSR DR33C Restoration-28.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-29.jpg

Regards Soulbear
Continued.........

[emidisc]

Hi Soulbear, the BSR is looking good! Right On
I would recommend that while the turntable is going in and out of the cabinet like a fiddlers elbow!
Lock the carriage at one end of its travel with a few cable ties secured round the guide bars, don't rely on the lead screw engagement (like I did!).
Also what is the extra rectangular cut out for??

KTF !
Emidisc

[Soulbear]

Hi Emidisc,
The 24Volt Gearmotor driving the Overhead is going to be Powered by a Pulse Width Modulation (P.W.M.) Speed Controller which rather usefully also Displays the Duty Cycle (The on Time Basically) as a Percentage from 0 to 100%, one of these :-

PWM and Display.JPG

Here's one in action when I was doing some testing of Speed/Weightlifting/Durability for future use with my MSS Overhead and Technics SP10 Turntable.

PWM Display.jpg

If I find 3 minutes Cutting Time is equal to say a 25% Duty Cycle, (A Bit of "Trial and Error" to Start With!) the next time I cut something of that length, I can simply "Dial In" 25% knowing that it should be on the money for the L.P.I. and Cutting Time. The Rectangular Hole is simply to mount the Controller to the Deck.
Regards & KTF Soulbear

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,

Hi Soulbear, the BSR is looking good!

Thanks Emidisc, agreed, even if I say so myself Te He! The Rewiring and Assembly Phase on this "As Rare as Hens Teeth Lathe" has now begun in earnest, and from looking "Shabby, Tired, and Tramp-Like" this DR33C (Just like I hoped it would) is beginning to look like the "Classy Lady" I envisaged it would, I hope other Trolls agree :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-30.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-31.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-32.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-33.jpg

I've got the Wiring/Rewiring to finish off, and I'm now awaiting delivery of a new Polyurethene "Drive Belt" for the Overhead, the Machining of a New Motor Drive Capstan for 45RPM Cutting, and also a Higher RPM Gearmotor for the Overhead. Now that I've done some initial testing of the Overhead, the Gearmotor that's currently fitted, whilst fine for Various L.P.I.s whilst Cutting, I've found to be a little "Too Slow" With the Cutting Speeds I've tested and timed, being at the "Top End" of the P.W.M. Controller's Duty Cycle, it does not then give me, the further "High Enough" Output Speed I wanted, for the Lead-In/Run-Out Grooves, which I want to "Semi-Automate" with the addition of a "Momentary Push Button" on the Lathe. The only "Major Criticism" I have, regarding the design of the DR33C (And it's a "Niggling Issue" really) is that the Handwheel for Hand-Cranking these Lead-In/Run-Out Grooves is way "Too Small" The Handle on the Handwheel, Operates at not much more than a 1" Radius, which hinders the ability to be "Smooth" when Hand Cranking. I'm hoping my modification to Semi- Automate this aspect, will eliminate entirely the need to Hand Crank these Grooves. I'm also in desperate need of a BSR Cutterhead to complete this Renovation too, Anyone got a spare they'd could bear to be parted from,(Shout Out here to Emidisc!! Te He ) Working or not, as long as it's complete. If I can't repair it myself, I know of a certain Gentleman in California who probably could.
Best Regards Soulbear
Continued........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
The wiring on this DR33C is now finished (With the Exception as noted Below!!) and I've fashioned a cover for the underside out of Hardboard, eliminating any risk, however unlikey, that hands can inadvertantly come into contact with anything "Live", just in case :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-36.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-37.jpg

I've also been having a little "Play Around" with the PWM "Pitch Controller" :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-38.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-39.jpg

The little PWM Speed Controller and Gearmotor drives the "Overhead Leadscrew" with the "Carriage" lever in the engaged position from down as Low as a 4% "Duty Cycle". In reality it would never be asked to operate at such a Low Level, the L.P.I. would be so "High" that it would be impossible to "Cut" at any acceptable Volume, without Overlapping Grooves.
Whilst running my Tests and Checks, Sods Law has reared its "Ugly Head" . I cannot enumerate how many times I've tested these little P.W.M. Controllers, and every time such tests have gone without a Hitch. The only thing I've done differently this time, is to exchange the Controller's "Single Turn" 100K Potentiometer for a "10 Turn" 100K Pot. The DR33C's Deckplate is a "Cast Aluminium" number, the thickness of which varies between 6mm to 9mm. The "Single Turn" Potentiometer's Mounting Threads could only accommodate being Mounted on a 4mm Thick Panel Maximum, and so I exchanged it for the "10 Turn" Pot which will (Just) fit the Deckplate. After about an Hour of Changing Speeds and seeing if the Contoller would start from a "Standstill" with the Overhead Carriage Lever "Engaged" this "10 Turn" Pot started misbehaving, going intermittently Open Circuit, whilst making adjustments. Notwithstanding that I'd attempted to "Dress" all the cables inside the Lathe's Plinth/Base with Loads of "Plastic Tie Wraps" this Pot has now to come out again and be exchanged!! Again I'm sorry to have to report, I've again been at around 98% up the "F" Scale Te He!!
Regards Soulbear
Continued........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
The offending 100K "10 Turn" Potentiometer has (At Great Pain I might add) today been replaced. For the life of me, I can't remember a time I've ever had a Pot fail on me after such short service (less than 2 Hours) The thing couldn't have had the decency to fail BEFORE it was installed HUMPH!! Here's the Guilty Item, even after a close visual examination, I couldn't see where the problem might be :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-46.jpg

Additionally, today I've been taking a bit more interest in the Cutterhead Carriage. As if the weight of a Cutterhead itself does not apply enough "Downward Force" when Cutting, an Expansion Spring, just forward of a "Pivot Point" within the Carriage is "Under Tension" and is also pulling the Mounting Frame of the Cutterhead "Propper" down towards the Platter, when the Leadscrew "Engagement Lever" is operated. I'm assuming or "Best Guessing" this "Downward Force" is somehow "Countered" by a Pivot Point and possibly an additional Spring on a BSR Cutterhead when it's attached to the Frame. However, I don't have a BSR Cutterhead to check this out, and such Photographs that I have seen (Like some I posted in the Reference Section of the Forum) don't shed any more light, on why the Carriage Spring would seem to be set up for adding to this "Downward Force" I'm thinking of how best to be able, to bring things back into equilibrium, and may have come up with what I think may be an elegant solution. To enable me to "Offset" this "Downward Bias" and bring things into balance, I've noticed that at the rear of the Carriage, behind the "Pivot Point" are 2 elongated "Slots" With the addition of a pair of "Spacers" I've installed 2 Aluminium "Uprights" which will be joined across the top by an Aluminium Tube. I've Drilled and Tapped a 6MM Hole through this Aluminiun Tube, and I hope to be able to insert some 6MM Studding on which to mount an adjustable "Counterweight". This is about as far as I've gotten with the DR33C today :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-47.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-42.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-43.jpg

Regards Soulbear
Continued.........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
Well now, for the first time since "I don't know when" my Fastener Suppliers have failed to get my order delivered the very next day. This has meant that today, I couldn't proceed as planned with my "Cutterhead Carriage" Counterweight System. However, there are still plenty of "Little Jobs" to do, as I continue in my attempt to bring this DR33C back into service, better suited to a more "Modern Cutting" environment. Staying with the Overhead, I've mentioned that I'd like if possible to "Semi-Automate" Lead-In, and more especially, Run-Out Grooves, due to the "Fiddly Design" I.E. the Ultra-Small Diameter of the little Handwheel and its Handle for manually "Cranking" the Leadscrew. How I've envisaged achieving this aim, is to "Set" my "Slower" Cutting L.P.I. using the Potentiometer on the Little P.W.M. Speed Controller, in addition, adding a N/O Momentary Push Button in series with a "As yet to be Determined" fixed Resistor, in parallel with the Pot. Depressing the N/O Push Button, in effect,"Shorts Out" the Pot, allowing the P.W.M Controller to run at Higher Duty Cycle, and hence giving me a "Higher" Motor Speed for the Lead-In and Run-Out Grooves. Now using this system, the Lead-In Groove is not so problematic, I'd just keep the N/O Push Button depressed, untill I'd achieved approximately the "Desired Width" of "Lead-In. The Run-Out to the "Locked Groove" however is a different story, the RIAA Dimensional Standards for 45 R.P.M. Records are listed (If memory serves me well) on the Aardvark Mastering Site and the locked Groove specified at 3 and 7/8th of an inch diameter (I Think? Note to Self Re-Check Later!!) Well Trolls, with the best eyesight, and will in the world, releasing a Push Putton at "Dead-On" this measurement would simply be impossible to accomplish. How to achieve this level of accuracy and consistency got me to thinking, how it could best be managed. Now a little while ago I purchased a small precision X-Y Linear Slide. I subsequently took it apart to give me 2 individual very Compact and Accurate Slides, like this :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-51.jpg

The Slide just so happens to be Drilled and Tapped at the Perfect Dimensions to accomodate a V3 Type Micro-Switch, so I went and ordered a few "Long Actuator" V3s :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-45.jpg

Next I came up with Mounting the Precision Slide C/W Micro-Switch on a 25mm Aluminium Tube-Mount so that the Micro-Switch is Operated by the "Glide Pin" on the Underside of the Rearmost "Overhead Rails :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-50.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-49.jpg

The N/C contacts of this Micro-Switch has been inserted into the P.W.M. Controllers Circuit, and now when I press the Push Button to advance the Cutterhead Carriage for Run-Out Grooves, when it reaches the RIAA Specified Groove Diameter the P.W.M. Controller will be "Shut-Off" With the addition of the Linear Slide for adjustment, I should be able to achieve both my aims, of Inner Groove Diameter Accuracy, and Consistency.
Regards Soulbear
Continued.......

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
The Micro-Switch Addition to the DR33C has had the best part of a full day, being Rigorously Tested for "Repeatability" and I'm pleased to say it's looking like it will Accurately Stop the P.W.M. Overhead Drive at the Pre-set RIAA specified Groove Diameter. Today the light was better to take an improved Photograph, which shows more clearly the Mounting Detail of the Linear Slide/Micro-Switch Modification I've undertaken :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-52.jpg

My Fastener Supplier came through with the delivery I was expecting yesterday, so I was able to carry on and complete the Cutterhead Frame "Counterweight" Modification. This entailed mounting a Pair of "Spacers" on the rear of the Cutterhead Frame. Upon these in turn, are Secured a Pair of Aluminium "Uprights" which are "Cross Braced" with a "Thick Walled" Aluminium Tube. This Tube has been Drilled and Tapped to take a Length of 6mm Stainless Steel Studding. The Studding should allow for the Precise Adjustment of a "Weight" that can be moved Back and Forth along the Threads, for Setting the "Correct Cutting Weight" whatever that might be. It has to be an improvement on the "Non-Balanced" "Non-Adjustable" Modus Operandi as things currently stood 'til this little modification:-

BSR DR33C Restoration-53.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-54.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-55.jpg

When I've got a Cutterhead attached to the Cutterhead Frame I'll be able to Experiment to find what Size of Weights will be needed to prevent the Cutterhead being (As it would be at Present) a Dead Weight with "Additional Downward Spring-Loading" The Weight of the 6mm Stainless Studding has proved to be more than enough to overcome the "Downward Bias" of the Spring-Loaded Cutterhead Frame, so it shouldn't need much more Weight to "Offset" the additional Weight of a Cutterhead.
Regards Soulbear
Continued.........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
Well now, I posted a "BSR Cutterhead Wanted" Advert, in the Classified and Tip Off Section of the Forum, more in hope than expectation, and Lo and Behold, I managed to Locate precisely Zilch, Nought, Nix, Nada, or if you like, a Big Fat ZERO!! Wanting to continue to make progress on this DR33C Lazarus Lathe Project, I did what I guess most other Lathe Trolls would have done, and looked around for an Alternative. I had kept 2 "Laydown" Type Cutterheads from Last Winters disastrous Foray into MSS Lathe Ownership, but sad to say, these Cutterheads (Much like the rest of the MSS Lathe) were "Humongous" and completely unsuited to the Task-In-Hand. I'd more or less completed the modification to the Overhead Carriage (Or so I thought. More about this Later!!) by the addition of these "Uprights" to which could be attached a "Counterweight" to offset the weight of any Cutterhead I could manage to make fit.

BSR DR33C Restoration-56.jpg

Then I got to looking more closely at the "Mounting Arrangement" on the Overhead Carriage, and started to formulate a solution to this "Lack of a Laydown Cutterhead" Conundrum. Did it necessarily have to be a "Laydown" Cutterhead?? Could I make an "Upright" Cutterhead fit?? If so, how could the Cutterhead be attached to work with what few options I had?? Well Trolls, after mulling over a couple of "Most Unlikely's and Totally Impossibles" I began to get the idea of using my very 1st Lathe Cutting-Related Purchase, which was of course, my "Ugly Duckling" Cutterhead. Now how to attach it to the Cutterhead "Frame" on the Overhead Carriage?? After a little more "Head Scratching" because of the "Pinch Tube" C/W a Knurled Thumbwheel which crosses the Cutterhead Frame, I came up with these :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-57.jpg

The Cut-Out Sections on these 1/2" Aluminium Brackets, allow the "Cutterhead Frame" to be "More or Less" rotated to the "Vertical" thereby avoiding the "Pinch Tube", and with 2 Holes on the Face with the Cut-Outs with which to mount "Ugly Duckling", and a further 2 Elongated Holes at the Top of the Opposite Face I'm pleased to report "Ugly Duckling" now has a new Home :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-58.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-59.jpg

"Ugly Duckling" weighs about the same as the Planet Saturn, and this has caused me to to have a Re-think about the Cutterhead Carriage "Counterweight" Modification, which I thought would simply do the trick, of Offsetting the Cutterhead's weight. No Such Luck!!!
Regards Soulbear
Continued............

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
In the Previous Post, I alluded to a "Problem" I'd encountered with my little "Cutterhead Counterweight" Modification. The problem was that I could bring the Cutterhead and Counterweight into "Equilibrium" when things were "Static" (By Static, I mean this in the sense of Stationary)without any issues. Once I marginally decreased the Counterweight, so that the Cutterhead would descend towards the Platter when using the Carriage "Cutterhead Lowering Lever" well thats when the "Problem" readily became more apparent. As the Cutterhead descended it moved virtually imperceptibly further away from the "Fulcrum" or "Pivot Point" if you will, within the Overhead Carriage. This was not so problematic as what was happening at the Other "Counterweight Side" of the Pivot Point, where the "Counterweight" moved considerably "Closer" to the "Pivot Point" causing a massive "Differential" twixt the "Static or Balanced" state of affairs, and after the Operation of using the Cutterhead Lowering Lever. Far from being "Balanced" by the Counterweight, once descending, because of the Counterweight getting "Relatively Closer" to the Pivot Point "Ugly Duckling" effectively became "Heavier and Heavier" and, Far from being "Balanced" was actually a Dead Weight, once it had been "Lowered". I've attempted to illustrate the problem in this little sketch of the Set-Up :-

BSR DR33C Restoration-60.jpg

After my initial disappointment (By what appeared to be, to all intents and purposes, the abject "Failure" of my "Counterweight Modification") subsided somewhat, I got my "Thinking Hat" on in an effort to contrive a "Solution" to this Problem. What I needed was something to "Counteract" what in effect, was the reduction in the Mass of the "Counterweight" after the Operation of the Lowering Lever, but how or what??? Still Fishing About for a Solution, I remembered that some time ago I'd bought a Box of "Assorted Springs" Not really knowing how I could use them, I nevertheless went and "Dug them out" from where they'd languished since my purchase of them. Once I'd offered them up to various points on the "Overhead" I could see that if I were to attach a spring to the "Moving" part of the Counterweight "Upright", and then proceed to anchor the other end of the spring to "Cutterhead Carriage" I would have something that would "Add" progressively more force, the more the Spring was extended. I could use this increasing "Force" to "Counteract" the Increase in "Weight" caused by the Counterweight's "Movement" Relative to the Pivot Point. So far so Good. I fitted the Spring, and it did exactly what I wanted, and "Counteracted" the effect of the diminishing "Counterweight" However, all was not yet quite right, for now, with the the addition of this Spring, "Ugly Duckling" had a tendency to "Bounce" if not lowered "Ultra, Ultra, SLOWLY!!" Now I had a slightly different problem, I'd sorted out the "Differential" Weight issue, to replace it with what had now become a "Bouncy" Cutterhead issue. Well fellow Trolls, there have been times many, when I've read through other Posts here on the Forum, where this very issue has been discussed. On many occasions the remedy has proved to be the addition of a "Damper" or "DashPot". Now it just so happens that in taking the advice to "Fit A Damper" I speculatively purchased an "AirPot" Damper, with the intention of adding it on to my MSS Overhead, which I'm hoping to use with my "Caruso" Cutterhead. However, as they sometimes say, "There's No Time like the Present" so it too has been fitted to the DR33C and what can I say?? Yippee!!! Everything on the Overhead eventually NOW WORKS A TREAT!!

BSR DR33C Restoration-62.jpg

BSR DR33C Restoration-63.jpg

Regards Soulbear
Continued...........

[Soulbear]

Hi Trolls,
I made a Boo Boo

BSR DR33C Restoration-57.jpg

and with 2 Holes on the Face with the Cut-Outs with which to mount "Ugly Duckling", and a further 2 Elongated Holes at the Top of the Opposite Face I'm pleased to report "Ugly Duckling" now has a new Home

Actually Trolls, the Face with the "Cut-Outs" (Which allows the Bracket to clear the "Pinch Tube on the Cutterhead Frame) have the Elongated Holes, and "Ugly Duckling" is Mounted on the Opposite Face, so this is contrary to how I previously described the Cutterhead fixing on the "Brackets" Sorry, Ooops!!
Regards Soulbear