Presto MS16 help, guidance, encouragement needed

[jackrpm]

Greetings to all from Tasmania.
I'm John, a long time lurker but first time poster.
I've recently scored a very early Presto MS16 in surprisingly good but incomplete condition. I can find no information on it to help with restoration apart from a possible thumbnail picture on prestohistory with the annotation "The first stationary lathe by Presto circa 1935 to 1936". Most of the important bits are there and I've got to the stage of getting the turntable spinning on both speeds. It didn't come with the lathe components but I do have one from another machine that will do the job. I'll also need a cutter head. The 33 1/3 idler wheel is almost satisfactory, the 78rpm is shot.
I've been playing with valves / tubes for at least 35 years so am confident I can knock up something era appropriate and of decent quality to drive it.
So, the plan is to get it functioning, but completing a jigsaw puzzle with pieces missing and not knowing what the final picture should look like is a challenge.
Does anyone have one? Used one? Seen one? Know of a manual? Can anyone help?

[rsimms3]

It looks like you have everything you need mechanically to get it going, just need to clean/lubricate everything appropriately and get a cutting head. I assume there's a motor in there given I can see the capstan sticking up to engage the rubber idlers but I didn't see a power cord. Even if the 33.3 idler is in good shape, it would be best to have it refurbed. If it's the least bit hard or has a flat spot that may affect your audio when cutting.

[jackrpm]

Yes, all the important bits are there. The motor power cable was crusty and dangerous, I've since replaced it when I serviced the motor.
I'm currently on the hunt for a cutting head. I have a few leads locally I'm following up, my fingers are crossed.
The 33.3 idler wheel was surprisingly compliant when I got it. I skimmed it on my lathe to remove the glazed skin and reveal fresh rubber, I've done this to dozens of record changer and vintage broadcast turntable idler wheels. The 78 is too far gone. I'll eventually get them both resurfaced one day.
My big problem now is that my feedscrew runs from inside out!
What's the story with reverse feedscrews?

[rsimms3]

In the earliest days they would cut from the inside out so that the swarf would tangle in the center around the spindle and not get in the way of the cut. Later, vacuum was added so cuts started from the outside in. Then they added heat to the stylus where the vacuum would help with cooling the stylus pulling air over it but keeping the tip itself hot.

I just had a thought, your overhead looks like a Presto but looking closer I wasn't sure. Does the carriage for the cutter head have a half nut or a single contact point with the feedscrew? If it's a half nut, that's going to complicate things.

[jackrpm]

Thanks for the info. I suppose I'm up for a new feedscrew also.
The carriage has a single sprung blade-like contact. I'm also unsure if it's a Presto or a locally made knock off or maybe even made under licence. Until the 1970's Australia had heavy tariffs on imported goods, so it wouldn't surprise me.

IMG20180504210910.jpg

[piaptk]

That carriage is factory presto. It's the same as a 6d.

It looks like it doesn't have a crank, right?
And it probably requires a feedscrew with a cog on the left end?

[jackrpm]

Thanks, it's good to have a positive ID. It increases my chances of finding bits for it.
Yes, there is a cog on the end of the screw and there is no hand crank.
Does that mean lead in and out grooves are impossible? or is there some old freehand trick that was used in the past?

[rsimms3]

The good: It's not a half-nut carriage.
The bad: It is a 6D overhead assembly (as Mike indicated above) and having an inside out screw is bad news for you. The 6D overheads had a feedscrew that had the gear at the end permanently attached, press fit. I have a weird 6D type feedscrew system that has a gear that can be removed. This gear included the ratcheting system that was needed in order to have the hand crank so you could cut lead-in/lead-out grooves.

Here's a discuss I had with someone about the 6D overhead recently as it related to feedscrews and the handcrank along with pictures:
https://www.lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7656&p=49404&hilit=presto+6d#p49387

[jackrpm]

So.... the more you know the more you realise how little you know! That thread was enlightening.
My next decision is whether I persevere the 6D overhead or start the hunt for a 6N?
My feed screw gear is fixed to a sleeve that is held onto the shaft with a set screw. I could possibly have a left hand thread feedscrew made. The reverse thread one I have will give me 96 lpi I think , cloning this in reverse will be no problem, I have a few expert fitter and turner friends. I could also have a 120 lpi screw made. This will however leave me with an overhead with serious limitations.
I'll have to start checking the classified section here. I'm determined to get this thing up and running, it's an amazing piece of history and engineering.

IMG20180505212614.jpg

[rsimms3]

Well, that's a little bit of consolation that you could get a new feedscrew manufactured to replace yours, assuming you can get the setscrew out and the feedscrew out of the sleeve. But, this doesn't help with regard to lead-in/lead-out grooves. Try sending a message to Mike (piaptk) above, he had a large collection of parts in the past, maybe he has something in the way of 6N parts.