FS:Presto 6n overhead, Audax RH5, feedscrews

[petermontg]

1. 6n overhead w/rear swarf nozzle €180
1. Audax RH5 8ohm recoiled by gib €180
6. Feedscrews €480

Feedscrews are LPI: 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 224

Can let it all go as bundle or break it down sale. Motorwolf has first dibs.

[motorwolf]

I'm hopefully trying to get a fairchild 16" transcription tt as a basis for this set-up, ''and if it don't fit, we'll make it fit'', hahaha...
hmm, I would also still need to find a 16" tone arm for playback of this monster.
any suggestions regarding the electronic input-signal part? like the cutting amp, how many watts? i got like an old british quad power amp that i really like a lot, 45/50 watts at 8 ohm mono, but also a peavey CR400 power slave 200+ watts at 4 ohm mono, and bridged 400+ watts at 8 ohm. i'd be interested in half-speed cutting too, with less watts for deeper groove (and longer time per side?) and less chance in overheating the head. surely i could produce a device to slow down the motor to half-speed. any suggestions for that as well?
and what about inverse RIAA curve, groove distance controller (or that's what the feedscrews are good for?), may I assume no phase problems with mono? so no need for a phase inverter/corrector/leveler? high- and low-pass filters to cut all under 40 hz and above 15 k? any compression/limiting necessary? I'm not a fan of compression in general, nor a loudness-maximizing afficionado as a lot of music tends to lose a lot of dynamics and tension that way. plus, as analogue as possible is always my preference! hope to hear from you soon,
thanks, guy

[motorwolf]

and here i'll have another retarded question regarding feedscrews: assuming it's for a machine that works with a fixed pitch, like many prestos and rekokuts, the amount of Lpi (loops per inch?), together ofcourse with the volume and amount of low-freq's, indicates the maximum amount of time per side you can cut, am I right? so could anyone ''roughly estimate'' with what Lpi feedscrews I could cut (mono!) around 15 to 22 minutes per 12" side on a presto or rekokut on 33 rpm of '60's/early '70's rock music on just average volume without compression and loudness maximization? and what lpi would one recommend with more harsh electronic beats (again between 15 to 22 minutes per lp-side, my main purpose for lathe cutting)? I know, I gotta be aware of the synthetic high-freq's to save the head, but I also do not need to cut electronic dance music that is solely meant for dj-clubbing with superpumped up bass and volume! no dj- or modern compression standards for me, please, i'd like to sit down and enjoy the nice and warm and interesting story-telling sound of music (no, not THAT musical, please), but at the same time I'm certainly no hi-end audiophile fanatic, as a little crackling, hissing and popping surface noise on a recording never really dramaticly spoilt my day, hahaha

thanks!

cheerio, guy

[petermontg]

8ohm 45watts amp.
Phase - are you referring for power? over head is powered from your TT is will sit on your TT top

Frequency response is 30hz - 13khz +2db

Calculating LPI: Time x speed ÷ Radius.
Calculating groove: 1000 ÷ LPI + 1 over 2

are you looking to cut 22 mins a side? That is full set feedscrew for cutting from 5mins+ a side. Am in no rush for payment so take your time making a decision.

The over head is built for 16" TT. You will need to secure it. I put a bracket onto a steel plate 5mm thick and cut center for TT to sit in. I spring loaded to TT edges so it became adjustable in height. I'll send you on some photo's.

[motorwolf]

- 45 watt by 8 ohm, so my quad 50e mono block seems to be made for it.
and regarding phase I was referring to stereo mix phase trouble, which should not be relevant for mono cutting I guess.
- 30hz to 13khz is perfect for me, just had my ears checked with a tone generator, above 14,5 k I couldn't hear anything, which is not that bad for a 42-year old dude that has exposed himself almost daily for more than 25 years to extreme 110 to 125+dB volumes (I know, I'm not sane): I'm the drummer with the 26" bassdrums, 24" cymbals and the 3 guitarists' 200 watt sunn amps (on 11) and cabs next to my ear, so i'll play more intense. still no tinnitus though, i must be lucky (so far), we've already lost several bandmembers and roadies (and fans!) because of our volume.
- overhead built for a 16" turntable: again, perfect!
- feedscrew calculations: so let's say 20 minutes times 33 rpm is 660 divided by 12 inches is 56 Lpi? I think i'm missing out on this, same for your groove calculation: what do you mean with ''1 over 2''? my english at grammar school was fairly good, but not perfect I'm afraid, especially when it comes to technical language.
thanks again...

[petermontg]

- 45 watt by 8 ohm, so my quad 50e mono block seems to be made for it.
and regarding phase I was referring to stereo mix phase trouble, which should not be relevant for mono cutting I guess.
- 30hz to 13khz is perfect for me, just had my ears checked with a tone generator, above 14,5 k I couldn't hear anything, which is not that bad for a 42-year old dude that has exposed himself almost daily for more than 25 years to extreme 110 to 125+dB volumes (I know, I'm not sane): I'm the drummer with the 26" bassdrums, 24" cymbals and the 3 guitarists' 200 watt sunn amps (on 11) and cabs next to my ear, so i'll play more intense. still no tinnitus though, i must be lucky (so far), we've already lost several bandmembers and roadies (and fans!) because of our volume.
- overhead built for a 16" turntable: again, perfect!
- feedscrew calculations: so let's say 20 minutes times 33 rpm is 660 divided by 12 inches is 56 Lpi? I think i'm missing out on this, same for your groove calculation: what do you mean with ''1 over 2''? my english at grammar school was fairly good, but not perfect I'm afraid, especially when it comes to technical language.
thanks again...

Calculate radius not diameter. you should aim to have your groove width @ 2mil, I wouldn't worry about calculating to 2.?? since your only getting into it. You will also need a microscope, (nothing fancy) to check your groove. Something with x40 lens will do you good.

20mins x 33.3 ÷ 5.5(12") =120 LPI That's how I calculate mine. I always leave some room for center label, about 1/2" or you can calculate to full radius of disc.

Edit: Some phase issue have been asked already
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=3085.html

[motorwolf]

yes, I've heard of peter king's turtle wax, but does this really mean souri's de-ionisator is not necessary to prevent static build-up on the very cutting needle itself, clogging up swarf around it? and if diamond styli are too expensive, what would you suggest to use on pvc/vinyl blanks from my pressing plant (less than a euro a piece and in any colour)? or use lexan/polycarbonate? or even acrylic? so far I keep reading it's a diamond-only job for all these 3 materials. and I do intend to cut one-offs that should last for quite a while on the average consumers' tt's, do you know of any other ''lasting'' material to cut on, using saffires or rubies? or should i really go for peter king's embossing technique with steel needles? presuming transco blanks are rather pricey and not-very-long-lasting acetates...
please correct me if I'm wrong, cheerio, guy

[motorwolf]

oh, yes, the modern stereo mix that won't sound nice in mono, but I luckily happened to learn already a long time ago to check out all my stereo mixes on a mono system first, before all thumbs would go up.

[motorwolf]

and damn', you're right: radius, not diameter! how silly of me...

[petermontg]

Personally I wouldn't recommend getting into diamond cutting at all. If your cutting for yourself for no profit maybe. If you take a look around and see what a diamond cut retails at you will be shocked. Mostly break even point from hobbyist.

I wouldn't even compare anything to souri unless you buy his machine you won't get your hands on any of his equipment.

Acrylic compound and saffire is a good starting point for you.

last conversation on diamond lathe cutting https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=2942&mforum=lathetrolls

[petermontg]

[motorwolf]

well, peter, thanks, this is exactly what I needed to hear! first of all: if ever I was doing it for the money, i'd be selling underwear on the market, certainly not running a crazy music record label or singing and drumming in an insane drug rock band! and being a squatter punk all my cockroach life (yes, dear folks, never had a job in my life and rarely got social security from the state, but never had trouble surviving, just lower your artificial luxury standards and it's fine, our western world is so full of excessive surplus production, it's insane!) I had never been interested in the high-end ''superclean dream machines'' in the first place. ofcourse, acrylic, why not, or x-ray films, or I'll try out any type of plastic, who knows what results this brings? it's a learning experience after all!

cheerio!

[motorwolf]

just to be sure i'm not confused: with acrylic compound I assume you mean PMMA ''acrylic acetate'' or perspex/plexiglass? so for how many hours can you ''carefully'' cut that (on average) before a ruby stylus is worn? since this material is a thermoplast, much more than lexan, it's sounds very interesting to experiment with heating it with infra-red lamps, and at a much higher surface temperature than the usual 40 degrees celsius, hihihi.
no worries, I know it burns easily and with very toxic fumes, but though i'm currently making a living as a musician and music producer, I'm also a biologist with a long-time-going scientific training at the famous Leiden university.
I'll be very careful and will take severe precautions...

[motorwolf]

oh, and i've just found a very informative topic on the forum regarding cutting acrylic, I shall inform all about my own experiments with plastics in the future!

[petermontg]

glad you found it. All you questions have been answered. Let us know in due time about purchase.

[motorwolf]

thanks, just read a preview to the coming lathe troll wiki, already very informative, like tommy polycut's trick to turn a saffire stylus 180 degrees to emboss PC, i'm looking forward to his complete explanation and I'm starting to figure out what's suitable and realistic for me more and more! your lathe with the audax and the feedscrews are sure gonna help me out a very long way, I've been reading about this subject and planning to experiment for already a very long time! i'll keep everyone posted, maybe asking a little question now and then, if that's still ok? cheerio, guy

[Steve E.]

You don't need a 16" tonearm (I am not sure such a beast exists). You may need an 11" or 12" tonearm. There are threads on this....the cheapest seem to be these $300 jobbies made out of cherry. Apparently they are pretty good!

[motorwolf]

thanks for that, steve!

[petermontg]

All sold to motorwolf.