DIY heated stylus
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Re: DIY heated stylus
I was referring to the sapphire cutting tip. Sapphire is a stone...
The cutting stylus can be referred to as a stone or a tool in old literature.
I never suggested adding anything. The sapphire (a stone) will maintain heat even if attached to a slightly wavering supply. Understand?
The cutting stylus can be referred to as a stone or a tool in old literature.
I never suggested adding anything. The sapphire (a stone) will maintain heat even if attached to a slightly wavering supply. Understand?
Cutting, Inventing & Innovating
Groove Graphics, VMS Halfnuts, MIDI Automation, Professional Stereo Feedback Cutterheads, and Pesto 1-D Cutterhead Clones
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http://mantra.audio
Groove Graphics, VMS Halfnuts, MIDI Automation, Professional Stereo Feedback Cutterheads, and Pesto 1-D Cutterhead Clones
Cutterhead Repair: Recoiling, Cleaning, Cloning of Screws, Dampers & More
http://mantra.audio
Re: DIY heated stylus
Got a HP 6214C to setup my heated stylus.
Anyone have use this before?
Should I use both knobs voltage and current? Both have 2 knobs each.
Thanks
Anyone have use this before?
Should I use both knobs voltage and current? Both have 2 knobs each.
Thanks
- EpicenterBryan
- Posts: 738
- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:01 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR USA
Re: DIY heated stylus
1). Turn current down all the way, and remove any connections from + and -.
2). Set switch to volts.
3). Adjust to anywhere from 6 to 12 volts. It really doesn't matter since you will want to run in constant current mode.
4). Place switch in Amps mode. Short the + and - terminals with a jumper wire.
5). Adjust Current to 0.5 - 0.6 amps, and remove short.
What you are really doing here is adjusting the current limit on the supply so it will output that much current through the ni-chrome wire all the time, no matter if the resistance of the wire changes as it heats or cools. Power will always remain the same. As a side effect, the voltage will change if the resistance changes - power remains the same.
Next, you have to have a vacuum pump connect to your swarf tube and have airflow past your stylus, or stop here until you are really ready. Don't try to use the heater unless you have air flow! Once you have that, connect your heater wires and you should be good to go.
However, everything I have read says that ideally you should adjust your current while listening to the high frequency noise in a silent groove while it's being cut. You would start with the current set to minimum while listening to play back turned way up... then adjust the current up until the HF noise goes away, and then adjust the current down a little bit and you are set.
Without a tonearm to play in real time the basic setting of 0.5A- 0.6A will get you in the ball park as I have read.
I should also add that if when you have the real stylus and ni-chrome wire hooked up with airflow and if you don't see that much current - just adjust the voltage up a bit. It really depends on the total length of the ni-chrome wire is actually wrapped and the length of the excess.
Bryan
2). Set switch to volts.
3). Adjust to anywhere from 6 to 12 volts. It really doesn't matter since you will want to run in constant current mode.
4). Place switch in Amps mode. Short the + and - terminals with a jumper wire.
5). Adjust Current to 0.5 - 0.6 amps, and remove short.
What you are really doing here is adjusting the current limit on the supply so it will output that much current through the ni-chrome wire all the time, no matter if the resistance of the wire changes as it heats or cools. Power will always remain the same. As a side effect, the voltage will change if the resistance changes - power remains the same.
Next, you have to have a vacuum pump connect to your swarf tube and have airflow past your stylus, or stop here until you are really ready. Don't try to use the heater unless you have air flow! Once you have that, connect your heater wires and you should be good to go.
However, everything I have read says that ideally you should adjust your current while listening to the high frequency noise in a silent groove while it's being cut. You would start with the current set to minimum while listening to play back turned way up... then adjust the current up until the HF noise goes away, and then adjust the current down a little bit and you are set.
Without a tonearm to play in real time the basic setting of 0.5A- 0.6A will get you in the ball park as I have read.
I should also add that if when you have the real stylus and ni-chrome wire hooked up with airflow and if you don't see that much current - just adjust the voltage up a bit. It really depends on the total length of the ni-chrome wire is actually wrapped and the length of the excess.
Bryan
Re: DIY heated stylus
Thanks Bryan
Re: DIY heated stylus
Looking at mine, I think is something wrong.
Set to Volts. Current all the way down. No wires.
Adjust the volts knob and nothing happens.
If I adjust the current a little bit, than I can adjust the volts.
When I switch to mA nothing happens if I adjust the knob.
I think this is a different one.
Set to Volts. Current all the way down. No wires.
Adjust the volts knob and nothing happens.
If I adjust the current a little bit, than I can adjust the volts.
When I switch to mA nothing happens if I adjust the knob.
I think this is a different one.
Re: DIY heated stylus
Hi,
There is nothing wrong with the supply. The switch just changes what the meter reads (volts or ma). It has no effect on the supply operation. If you have no load connected, there will be no current reading when in the ma. position. Bryan's procedure instructed you to start out with the current adjust control all the way down. On many power supplies, this will keep the supply from generating any voltage output since it is technically in current limit (limit = 0). As you discovered, you have to set the current control a bit above zero to allow the supply to generate an voltage output with no load connected. Once you connect a load, you will be able to see the effect of adjusting the current limit control via the meter. If you make this small change to Bryan's procedure, then you should be good to go.
Mark
There is nothing wrong with the supply. The switch just changes what the meter reads (volts or ma). It has no effect on the supply operation. If you have no load connected, there will be no current reading when in the ma. position. Bryan's procedure instructed you to start out with the current adjust control all the way down. On many power supplies, this will keep the supply from generating any voltage output since it is technically in current limit (limit = 0). As you discovered, you have to set the current control a bit above zero to allow the supply to generate an voltage output with no load connected. Once you connect a load, you will be able to see the effect of adjusting the current limit control via the meter. If you make this small change to Bryan's procedure, then you should be good to go.
Mark
Re: DIY heated stylus
cool. Gotcha.
So is setup to 6 volts and around 400 mA.
if I'm correct 400mA = 0.4 amps.
let's start with that and see how it goes
thanks
So is setup to 6 volts and around 400 mA.
if I'm correct 400mA = 0.4 amps.
let's start with that and see how it goes
thanks
Re: DIY heated stylus
Hi,
I would start lower than 400 ma. (or .4 A) and increase as needed until you find the sweet spot. 400 ma is pretty close to where you want to be. Its ok to set the current limit to zero to start. Just monitor it with the meter switch on the ma position. If you intend to run in constant current mode, the voltage setting doesn't matter too much as long as its set high enough to allow the current setting to be met. In this mode, the power supply will deliver the voltage required to reach your current setting. If you find that you are not able reach the current setting, just increase the voltage a bit until it does. 6 volts is probably fine. If you want to see how the current limit works. Short the + and - terminals together and you will find that the current setting is adjustable form 0 to the max that the supply can deliver. Keep the meter switch in the mA position to monitor the current.
BTW, I see that the supply has plus, minus, and ground terminals. You connect your heater to the plus and minus terminals. The ground can stay unconnected.
Mark
I would start lower than 400 ma. (or .4 A) and increase as needed until you find the sweet spot. 400 ma is pretty close to where you want to be. Its ok to set the current limit to zero to start. Just monitor it with the meter switch on the ma position. If you intend to run in constant current mode, the voltage setting doesn't matter too much as long as its set high enough to allow the current setting to be met. In this mode, the power supply will deliver the voltage required to reach your current setting. If you find that you are not able reach the current setting, just increase the voltage a bit until it does. 6 volts is probably fine. If you want to see how the current limit works. Short the + and - terminals together and you will find that the current setting is adjustable form 0 to the max that the supply can deliver. Keep the meter switch in the mA position to monitor the current.
BTW, I see that the supply has plus, minus, and ground terminals. You connect your heater to the plus and minus terminals. The ground can stay unconnected.
Mark
- EpicenterBryan
- Posts: 738
- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:01 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR USA
Re: DIY heated stylus
Mark nailed it. Sorry for the error!markrob wrote: Bryan's procedure instructed you to start out with the current adjust control all the way down. On many power supplies, this will keep the supply from generating any voltage output since it is technically in current limit (limit = 0).
Re: DIY heated stylus
For sure.EpicenterBryan wrote:Mark nailed it. Sorry for the error!markrob wrote: Bryan's procedure instructed you to start out with the current adjust control all the way down. On many power supplies, this will keep the supply from generating any voltage output since it is technically in current limit (limit = 0).
Thanks guys for the help. You guys rock.
Worked like a charm.
Will do more tests tomorrow.
Re: DIY heated stylus
Granted this is not the least expensive solution but would a variable DC power supply suffice as a heating power supply?
https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD
https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD
Re: DIY heated stylus
Hi,
It will probably be fine, but it is a bit overkill. You don't need anywhere close to 30V at 5A. The only concern would be how smooth and fine the adjustment of both current and voltage setting is especially at the lower limits of the supply. You need to be running less than 12V and under 1A (probably much less). As long as you can test and return if it does not meet your needs, you should be ok. The other concern is construction quality. This is a low cost made in China product and it may not be very well made.
Let us know how it works for you if you end up purchasing.
Mark
It will probably be fine, but it is a bit overkill. You don't need anywhere close to 30V at 5A. The only concern would be how smooth and fine the adjustment of both current and voltage setting is especially at the lower limits of the supply. You need to be running less than 12V and under 1A (probably much less). As long as you can test and return if it does not meet your needs, you should be ok. The other concern is construction quality. This is a low cost made in China product and it may not be very well made.
Let us know how it works for you if you end up purchasing.
Mark
Re: DIY heated stylus
Gotta love Amazon prime! But even if it's not what I need for this I'm sure I could find some other use for it.. I may need to do some electro plating in the near future... no not plating mastersmarkrob wrote:As long as you can test and return if it does not meet your needs, you should be ok.
There's a lot of posts here about heating wires and what voltage and amps to use but I can't find a post suggesting what temp is advisable for polycarbonite for example..
Re: DIY heated stylus
Hi,
Its not really easy to specify a temperature. That's why you see Volts and Amps discussed (which end up describing power in watts). The procedure is to cut a silent groove with no heat and slowly add power to the heating coil. If you can can playback at the same time you are cutting, its easier to find the sweet spot as you can add heat and observe the noise floor in real-time. With a lacquer blank, you will reach a minimum noise level and then start to see it rise as you add more heat. I'm not sure if that's the case with poly. If its not possible to monitor the noise level in real-time, then you will have to make a test cut(s) with an increasing power and estimate the proper operating point based on the playback. At some point, you will reach a power limit that the heating element can produce without self destruction. If you see the coil glowing red, its probably getting very close to the limit.
Hope that helps.
Mark
Its not really easy to specify a temperature. That's why you see Volts and Amps discussed (which end up describing power in watts). The procedure is to cut a silent groove with no heat and slowly add power to the heating coil. If you can can playback at the same time you are cutting, its easier to find the sweet spot as you can add heat and observe the noise floor in real-time. With a lacquer blank, you will reach a minimum noise level and then start to see it rise as you add more heat. I'm not sure if that's the case with poly. If its not possible to monitor the noise level in real-time, then you will have to make a test cut(s) with an increasing power and estimate the proper operating point based on the playback. At some point, you will reach a power limit that the heating element can produce without self destruction. If you see the coil glowing red, its probably getting very close to the limit.
Hope that helps.
Mark