Semar choice 😁🔥

[Semar]

Hello trolls, question of the day, I mapped my head for the first time with pink noise, it's much better but obviously the highs are still missing, what are you using as a sound source for the second mapping? I was thinking of a sweep, or maybe assembling a track with several musical extracts and sweep? Or maybe use this and restart mapping from the beginning?

[spinnertownblanks]

It may just be the capability of your head or technique. The image of the mapping of your head in 'Record Cutters Guild' had 30db boost in the high end, which is much more than should ever be needed. If you are embossing, then this is just a limitation of the process. For full fidelity high end you need to be cutting with a diamond generally.

[Semar]

It may just be the capability of your head or technique. The image of the mapping of your head in 'Record Cutters Guild' had 30db boost in the high end, which is much more than should ever be needed. If you are embossing, then this is just a limitation of the process. For full fidelity high end you need to be cutting with a diamond generally.

OK, but I was thinking that as i ve good bass easily so i can remove more bass with the eq and cut louder to get more high , no ?
Does it make sense ?

[spinnertownblanks]

If you are embossing, you are limited to what frequencies the groove can replicate. An embossed groove physically can not replace the same high end that a cut groove can, its not opinion based, thats the literal physics of a groove. For sure keep testing, i don't know exactly what your records are sounding like, but just bare in mind that you are embossing.

[Semar]

If you are embossing, you are limited to what frequencies the groove can replicate. An embossed groove physically can not replace the same high end that a cut groove can, its not opinion based, thats the literal physics of a groove. For sure keep testing, i don't know exactly what your records are sounding like, but just bare in mind that you are embossing.

OK i will continue in this way and see what i can get with embossing...
An a day go to cut...

[Semar]

Hi friends
Today is a beautiful day, I finally have some treble.
I tried several times to create a second mapping instance without success, the results were really weird.
So I tried another way: I used the first curve at +30dB, and I repeated it at +10dB. It was much better, but not enough.
So I tried adding analogically with the mixer using the same EQ: treble all the way up, midrange at 9 o'clock, bass at 12 o'clock (0).
And magic!
I think I can still improve all this, but I'm finally satisfied.
Thanks to everyone who helped me!

[Semar]

https://youtu.be/ESuCXZPj6TM?si=TLSo1g9TzM1wXorw

[Semar]

Happy wednesday
https://youtu.be/qZcGAF3TE34?si=ZECElIlVHmhrs-k7

[Semar]

Hi guys, technical question today.

Now that I'm starting to get decent results with polycarbonate embossing, tungsten stylus, tracking, surface noise, and sound.

I tried PVC blanks again with the same settings, the grooves are barely visible, tracking is impossible.

I would have thought PVC is softer, though.

Should I heat it? Add weight?

[farmersplow]

 
Hello Semar,
The softness of PVC depends greatly on the type of PVC (additives)! Basically, there are two types of PVC: hard and soft. Only hard PVC (PVC-U) can be used for cutting sheets. However, there is a wide range of different degrees of hardness (hardness is measured in Shore D for plastics. The higher the number, the harder the plastic).
Depending on the additives, PVC-U has a range of 48-93 Shore D!
The same applies to PC (polycarbonate plastic): depending on the additive, from 48-86 Shore D!
It may well be that PP is softer than PVC and vice versa.
And now the big guessing game begins: what is the actual hardness of the plastic and which is ideal for scratching with tungsten? This is a science in itself, and the manufacturers of sheet blanks have given it a lot of thought and probably carried out many tests to find out. You can, of course, go to the DIY store and buy and test different plastics. Some manufacturers specify the Shore D value. You should use this as a guide and test to find the best plastic for your tungsten rod.

So when someone talks about PVC, PC or PET-G, this is a very broad term because of the wide range of plastics involved. It is not just the type of plastic, but also its composition (additives). Incidentally, some types of PVC have special additives to make the surface particularly scratch-resistant.
I once claimed that it makes no sense to heat PVC to soften the surface for cutting, because then you would have to heat it to over 80-90°C – which would probably destroy many parts of the lathe. However, I must admit that there are special types of PVC where it could have a slight effect even at 50°C. But these types of PVC are very rare and are a combination of PVC-P (soft PVC) and PVC-U.
In the appendix, I have compiled a small table that shows the hardness ranges of some plastics. That is why I use PET-G, because the range (70-80 Shore D) is quite small and I therefore always get the same results.

I hope this helps a little to understand the materials better.

Best regards, Thomas

Shore D.jpg

[Semar]

 
Hello Semar,
The softness of PVC depends greatly on the type of PVC (additives)! Basically, there are two types of PVC: hard and soft. Only hard PVC (PVC-U) can be used for cutting sheets. However, there is a wide range of different degrees of hardness (hardness is measured in Shore D for plastics. The higher the number, the harder the plastic).
Depending on the additives, PVC-U has a range of 48-93 Shore D!
The same applies to PC (polycarbonate plastic): depending on the additive, from 48-86 Shore D!
It may well be that PP is softer than PVC and vice versa.
And now the big guessing game begins: what is the actual hardness of the plastic and which is ideal for scratching with tungsten? This is a science in itself, and the manufacturers of sheet blanks have given it a lot of thought and probably carried out many tests to find out. You can, of course, go to the DIY store and buy and test different plastics. Some manufacturers specify the Shore D value. You should use this as a guide and test to find the best plastic for your tungsten rod.

So when someone talks about PVC, PC or PET-G, this is a very broad term because of the wide range of plastics involved. It is not just the type of plastic, but also its composition (additives). Incidentally, some types of PVC have special additives to make the surface particularly scratch-resistant.
I once claimed that it makes no sense to heat PVC to soften the surface for cutting, because then you would have to heat it to over 80-90°C – which would probably destroy many parts of the lathe. However, I must admit that there are special types of PVC where it could have a slight effect even at 50°C. But these types of PVC are very rare and are a combination of PVC-P (soft PVC) and PVC-U.
In the appendix, I have compiled a small table that shows the hardness ranges of some plastics. That is why I use PET-G, because the range (70-80 Shore D) is quite small and I therefore always get the same results.

I hope this helps a little to understand the materials better.

Best regards, Thomas

Shore D.jpg

Hello Thomas, à very big thanks to you, it s the best answer i get
All this things takes sense for me, and it s probably why people aren't agree about the possibilities to emboss pvc
I must know what kind of pvc i have
Perhaps as you , get PET G blanks and set my lathe with it
Thanks

[spinnertownblanks]

In case it is helpful, here is the ratings for our PETG. Our black, red, white or transparent are all identical and come under these ratings. This way you can compare next to other plastics. Full info for our materials are on our FAQ on our website if you ever want to reference it.

[spinnertownblanks]

I should add, PET-G is the right hand 'value' column, the left hand value is for PET-A which is no good for cutting since it doesn't have the glycol which is essential for smooth diamond cutting. Glycol is the additive that adds elasticity giving higher elongation at break and impact resistance, basically more flexibility which the diamond needs.

[farmersplow]

I should add, PET-G is the right hand 'value' column, the left hand value is for PET-A which is no good for cutting since it doesn't have the glycol which is essential for smooth diamond cutting. Glycol is the additive that adds elasticity giving higher elongation at break and impact resistance, basically more flexibility which the diamond needs.

Very interesting, I've never found PET-G with 40 Shore D before. But some manufacturers don't specify any values either. I'm not a chemist either, but I'm always happy to learn new things. Thanks for the information!

[Semar]

Hello Thomas, i ve re tried pvc yesterday, just added weight to the head and it's running
Just have to fix background noise but music sounds good, nearly better than PC
I will look for a sapphire stylus !

[Semar]

https://youtu.be/vGv25yOoBQI?si=8jQK4GhSPp058d_A

[Semar]

What do you think about it ?

[Semar]

Hello cutters

Something strange for me
I ve bought a new neddle for my orthofon playing stylus (pink) and it's impossible to play my embossed disc with it !
It's running perfectly with pressed recors ...
When i put my 20 years old stylus it's ok with embossed disc

What do you think about that ?

[Semar]

Hey everyone, Happy New Year!

My concern is, I mapped my cutting head with Pro Q3 in zero-latency mode. Did I do it correctly, or should I redo it in linear or natural phase?

I read about it somewhere, but I'm not sure anymore, so I'm questioning everything I've done since... (as a reminder, it's a homemade lathe, a homemade head, and tungsten embossing on polycarbonate). Thanks!

[spinnertownblanks]

If using Pro Q3 go with Natural Phase